Waggin' Tails Miniature Dachshunds

Puppy Proofing & Poisons

Preventing Accidents

Playpens and Baby Gates

Falling

Paper shredder

Household Items

Electrical cords

Gutter Guard protectors around base of furniture

Bed risers for tables

Puppies and Outdoors

Holidays

Poisons

Most accidents can be prevented. Puppies are happy little innocents who constantly bungle into dangerous situations. It is up to you to remove the danger by making your house and yard as puppy-proof as possible.

Very basically, “puppy proofing” (a room or a home) would be almost the same as “baby proofing” – with the exception that while baby humans are watched almost constantly, baby puppies are often not. I have found that playpens and baby gates are not a bad idea for either species 

Baby Dachshund puppies are a perfect size for low height, inexpensive metal or plastic indoor pens. If you have to leave the baby for any length of time, he can play happily in his indoor pen with his toys. Make sure he has a blanket to curl up on if he wants to take a nap, and has food and water. It’s a good idea to have newspapers and/or pee pads on floor of the pen, and if the baby is going to be in there for an extended period of time – you might put an inexpensive plastic shower curtain on the floor with the newspapers and/or pee pads on top of it. The shower curtain will keep any dampness from your floor, and has the added bonus of being easily washed in a washing machine.

Puppy pens can be used if you have to step out of the house for a bit and do not want to take the puppy along; or even while you are home, but are involved with something - painting, cleaning floors, busy getting dinner, or on a long distance phone call with relatives, etc. and do not want the distraction of keeping an eye on the baby. If someone comes over with a toddler who is too young to be handling a baby puppy, you can simply put the puppy in his pen. Often times during emergencies you really need a secure place to put a puppy quickly, knowing that he will be safe. Perhaps you will never need a puppy pen, but it offers peace of mind just having one – and knowing that it’s there if you ever need it.

Our home is set up with baby gates in most of the doorways. That way it is extremely easy to simply close a gate to confine a puppy in a bedroom or kitchen, etc. if we want to administer medication, give him a bath or do some training without having all the other dogs clustered around us. It is also easy to keep the males from the in-season females while allowing them all to stay comfortably in the rooms they are used to. A baby gate allows little puppies to have the run of a room or hallway while being safely contained in a specific area, and allows them and the older dogs to greet each other and interact a bit through the baby gate before they mingle.  The baby gates are closed around our front entranceway, preventing any of the dogs from dashing out if the door is opened. Baby gates are terrific to prevent dogs from walking on newly washed floors. They are wonderful for keeping dogs away from repairmen who come to fix dishwashers, etc.; and also helps keep them out from underfoot if you are moving furniture or heavy items.

The BEST baby gates are the ones with vertical bars only. Baby gates that have horizontal bars or mesh are not that difficult for a puppy to climb over. On the "Dog Supplies" page I describe the brand I've found is the absolute best - and where to get them.

Playpens (aka puppy pens) and babygates are worth their weight in gold.

Don't place him on beds, chairs or any place from which he might tumble; unless you are right with him. Falling is a common cause of puppy injuries.

If you have a paper shredder, make SURE it is kept in the OFF mode. Do NOT leave it on "AUTO" -do you have any idea what a puppy's tongue or paw would look like if it got caught in one of those?

A puppy will swallow anything small enough to go down, and if it isn't small enough he will chew it into bitesize pieces. You can say "No, No!" until you're hoarse, but it's like telling him to stop teething. To protect your puppy (and your possessions) remove all swallowable or chewable objects until he has outgrown the habit. Give him a few tough toys to tangle with, such as rawhide chews or hard rubber toys. Lock your closet for a while, so he can't start sampling your shoes.

Electrical wires that might be chewed should be removed or placed out of reach. The same should be done with toxic chemicals, glassware and small objects that could be swallowed. Remember that puppies are very curious and may stand on their hind legs or even climb on top of furniture to reach something they find particularly interesting. Yarn, string and any type of fabric which can be unraveled are particularly dangerous if swallowed.  You would be surprised at the items a puppy can swallow.

Be especially careful to keep the following objects out of reach:

    * needles, pins and small toys like jacks and marbles
    * anything that might splinter, such as glass, wood, brittle plastic, bones
    * pills, medicines, and both household and garden poisons
    * soft rubber, as found in many rubber toys. When chewed, this can easily crumble into a sticky mass and obstruct his intestinal tract.
    * soaps, detergents, bleaches and other cleaning supplies. If he is allowed in the garage, make sure that paint cans, corrosives, alkalies, and acids are on high shelves.

Many folks wonder why puppies and dogs seem to be drawn to “black plastic,” citing stories of chewed up remote controls, cell phones, etc.  Dogs, and especially puppies are very “scent oriented.”  A human’s hand is covered with sweat glands – giving off a scent to whatever it touches. The dogs are not drawn to ”black plastic,” they are drawn to “handheld items”.  The same applies to socks and shoes. Human feet sweat a lot. Anything that is in contact with them for any length of time (i.e. socks & shoes) are an irresistible treasure trove of scent for dogs.  Do not leave those items where the puppy can get hold of them, or you will find them chewed.

Bentley & Chance's parents, Dalton & Jacob have excellent ideas for protecting puppies from electrical cords: 

"We used cord cover kits on all the cords that ran along the walls, and they have worked out great.  The boys don't even notice them.  We used a cord protector on the cords that run across the floor.  They investigate those from time to time but don't find it interesting after a few moments.  We have two aquariums and an entertainment center that have too many cords for the cord cover kits.  We didn't want to put anything up that the puppies could easy knock down and get behind, nor did we want to attach anything which would prevent us from getting back there if necessary.  So we put pieces of acrylic up and attached them with velcro.  Now when we need to get to a cord,we can; and it keeps the puppies out."

by Dalton and Jacob

Bentley and Chance were small enough to get beneath the couch, and since I kept my laptop under there, I didn't want them to be able to get to it and chew on the cords. We still wanted them to have access behind the couch because it is fun to watch them chasing each other around the furniture. We went to Lowes and purchased plastic mesh "Gutter Guards" which were only $3 or $4. We stretched it across the bottom of the couch and screwed it into the legs and along the base of the couch. The couch cover hides the guards, and they are strong enough to keep the puppies out. Well, Chance did manage to get through it once, but after we got him out, we told him "No!" and after a while he gave up trying. He and Bentley have a ball running around the couch and our laptop is safe.

The below pictures show 1) the roll of Gutter Guard, 2) how it is attached to a couch leg, 3) finished and hidden by the couch cover.

By Dalton & Jacob

Our coffee table has a bar that runs across the bottom and the boys kept bumping their heads on it so we needed a way to lift it. We purchased some bed risers from Wal-mart (you can get them just about anywhere) and put them under the legs. The risers lifted the bar about 5 inches so now  Bentley and Chance can run beneath without bumping their heads.

Puppies should be vaccinated and wormed before they are taken outdoors. Give the new puppy time to adjust. Outdoor periods should be short at first, then gradually lengthened over the next week or two. Particularly in a young puppy, sudden exposure to extremes of temperature can result in serious illness. 

Don't let your puppy go out alone until you have taught him his name and to come when you call. A puppy will learn its name easily if you repeat it often as you groom, feed and pet him. He can also be quickly trained to come to you. 

I would never allow a young puppy outside unsupervised, any more than I would a very young human baby. Once the puppies are a little older, they can be unsupervised IF you have made adequate provisions for their safety, health and comfort. Never, never, never allow your dog to roam. Keeping your dog in a secure area on your own property is not only a matter of law in many communities but obvious good sense. A dog that is allowed to run free (I don't care HOW many acres you have) can encounter many risks. He is in danger of being hit by cars, attacked by other dogs, stolen or poisoned. 

Make sure your fence is tall enough to prevent him from climbing or jumping over the top. The fence should fit tight to the ground - or even preferably (because Dachshunds are digging dogs) buried a few inches to a foot beneath the ground to keep the him from crawling or digging out beneath it. Also be certain spaces between posts and gate(s) do not allow for him to squeeze through. Keeping the gate locked prevents someone from carelessly opening the gate and allowing him to get out. Fencing should be maintained in good condition. Be certain there are no sharp points where he can be caught or injured.

July 5th is the busiest day of the year at animal shelters. Dogs are found miles from their homes, confused, disoriented, and exhausted. People call hoping to locate a missing dog that, terrified, crashed through a window, jumped a high fence or tunneled under one, or broke it’s leash. Protect your dog on July 4th. If fireworks upset him, make sure someone stays with him. Be your dog’s best friend. Help him with his fears.

Halloween is one of the best holidays for kids, but it can be hard on pets if you don’t take some precautions. The best way to keep your pet safe is to keep him inside the home. Outside pets can be spooked by noisy groups of small children and might end up running too far from home to find their way back. Many pets are captured and tortured by lowlifes as a way of getting “kicks.” Mutilated bodies of dogs and cats, especially black or white animals, are found after Halloween.  Keep pets away from the door by using a barrier. You may open the door many times during Halloween evening, providing tempting opportunities for your dog to slip through your legs and outside unescorted. Dogs may become very anxious if they see the endless intrusions of strangely costumed beings in their territory.

Christmas time presents many hazards to your puppy. Pine needles, ornaments, ribbons etc. can be fatal if ingested. Christmas tree electrical cords present special hazards. Your puppy will be so excited with all the new sights and sounds of the holidays, the guests, the family excitement, etc. Be sure you give him plenty of loving at this time. Unfortunately many pets are pushed away, left outside or locked in crates or basements so that their owners may enjoy the holidays without them. Be very careful of giving your pet too many treats during this season. Many dogs have been brought to the vets during and after the holidays deathly ill because people thought it would be fun to give them spiced up holiday drinks such as eggnog with alcohol. Be kind, be considerate.

After Easter, Halloween and Christmas, you might find yourself with a house full of candy. Do not feel you must share it with your pet. If you want to treat your puppy, use milkbones or puppy treats.

Please remember that just because something isn’t on the below list – that doesn’t mean it is safe. Also remember that “amounts” and “concentrations” can mean the difference between “safe” and “poisonous.”  Even just plain salt can be poisonous if a large amount is ingested. Please do not give human products which contain concentrated oils to dogs, not only are the products made for much larger bodies (humans versus dogs), but a concentrated oil which might be safe for humans might be toxic for a pet.

There are different types of poisons:

1. Corrosive Poisons

•     Battery acid
•     Corn and callous remover
•     Dishwasher detergent
•     Drain cleaner
•     Grease remover
•     Lye
•     Oven cleaner

•     Paint solvent
•     Floor wax
•     Dry cleaning solution
•     Gasoline

•     Pesticides
•     Fungicides
•     Insecticides
•     Lawn & garden weed killer
•     Rodent poisons
•     Snail & slug poison
•     Antifreeze
•     Ink
•     Matches

PRECAUTIONS:

Do NOT induce vomiting – with the ingestion of

•     Petroleum products
•     Kerosene    
•     Gasoline
•     Caustic (acid or alkaline) substance

•     Unconscious
•     Has difficulty breathing
•     Has difficulty swallowing
•     Showing signs of nervous system problems
•     Tremors
•     Convulsions

    Resulting from being spilled on the dog’s skin or from ingestion.

Resulting from ingesting Aspergillus flavus or Penicillium molds on feed. They are often found on corn, peanuts or cottonseed that has molded, whether in the field or in storage. To avoid aflatoxin poisoning, do not give feed, whether grain or dog food, which has molded. Aflatoxin can be produced even in foods which do not look moldy.

Resulting from drinking water from ponds containing blooms of blue-green algae. Pets become poisoned by the endotoxin that these algae produce when they drink water from the pond.

Resulting from the ingestion of rodent bait or by eating carcasses of rodents poisoned by these compounds.

    Resulting from ingesting rodenticide containing Antu.

Resulting from walking in an area recently treated with some herbicides or insecticides and then licking his feet. It is also found in many ant poisons, such as Terro Ant Killer (Sanoret Chemical). Arsenic is a component of some rodent poisons, such as Vacor. It may also be present in wind-borne smoke or dust from some smelters. Arsenic is also an ingredient in Paris green which is sometimes used as a pigment in paint.

    Resulting from skin contact or ingestion.

Resulting from ingesting garbage or spoiled meat or bones. Dogs are somewhat resistant to botulism, and it is uncommon in dogs but may occasionally be seen.

Resulting from ingesting rodenticides (including Vengeance, Rat Place Pack, Assault Mouse) that contain bromethalin.

    Similar to organophosphate poisoning.

Resulting from inhaling the colorless, odorless, non-irritating gas. It is generated by furnaces, stoves and vehicle exhaust, especially if operated in a confined area without adequate ventilation. Can occur when a dog is carried in the trunk of a vehicle.

Resulting from ingestion or absorption through the skin of pesticides containing chlorinated hydrocarbons.

    Resulting from ingesting rodenticide containing cholecalciferol.

Resulting from ingestion of cocaine. Get the dog to a vet as soon as possible and be sure to tell him what the dog has eaten. The signs of cocaine poisoning are not specific, and he might not otherwise figure it out in time to save the dog.

Resulting from ingestion usually from chewing on corroded areas of copper pipes.  Ingredients in some spray materials are also copper sulphate.

Resulting from ingesting battery acid, corn and callous remover, dishwasher detergent, drain cleaner, grease remover, lye, oven cleaner etc. Phenols are also corrosive agents, commonly found in disinfectants, wood preservatives, fungicides, herbicides and photographic developers.

    Resulting from ingesting cyanides, especially some mole poisons.

    Resulting from insect sprays.

Some of these products contain enough ethyl alcohol to be absorbed through the skin and cause toxicity.

    Resulting from ingestion of drugs.

Resulting from ingesting alcoholic beverages. Occasionally can result from washing young puppies, puppies of small breeds or very small, thin-skinned dogs with dishwashing detergent. Alcohol intoxication may be fatal in a puppy or small dog. Whether their central nervous systems are more susceptible to alcohol, or whether a puppy’s liver is less able to metabolize it; whatever the reason, puppies are very susceptible to the effects of alcohol.

Resulting from ingestion of antifreeze or color film-processing chemicals. Ethylene glycol is quite attractive to pets because of it’s sweet taste. A high percentage of dogs die if not treated soon after drinking ethylene glycol. If the dog survives, kidney failure usually develops.

Some fertilizers contain herbicides or other chemicals which make them more toxic. (Do NOT believe the salespeople, or even the label, if they state that the product is safe for pets; of course they will tell you that so they can make a sale. I’ve known many pet owners whose pets were poisoned by fertilizers (particularly lawn sprays) and insecticides (particularly house spraying) when they were told they were perfectly safe.

Resulting from the dog eating spoiled food, especially ham, chicken and milk products. Some staph bacteria are rarely fatal, other strains of staph bacteria may be fatal regardless of treatment.

Resulting from the ingestion of paint containing lead. Dogs can ingest the paint from chewing on painted surfaces. Putty, plumbing materials, lead foil, golf balls, roofing materials, linoleum, fishing weights, shotgun pellets, grease, batteries, drapery weights and solder can also cause lead poisoning. Glazed ceramic food bowls, particularly from Mexico, may not have been fired well enough to bind the lead pigments in the glaze. The lead can slowly leach out into the food or water and be a source of chronic lead exposure.

    These plants are very poisonous, as are plants from the lilium family.

Resulting from ingesting marijuana cigarettes or marijuana-containing food.

Resulting from the ingestion of slug or snail bait or pesticides containing Metaldehyde. About half the dogs who eat snail bait die. This poison is often combined with arsenic.

Dogs are susceptible to most of the same mushrooms that poison humans. Amanita is perhaps the most toxic genus.

    Resulting from the ingestion of some types of mothballs.

    Very similar to Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug poisoning

Resulting from inhaling chemical-filled hairs as dogs run through the nettle plants and get them in their eyes and on their tongues and skin.

    Resulting from ingesting cigarettes or cigars, etc.

    Resulting from ingestion – usually in large quantities.

    (same as Lily of the Valley Poisoning)

Resulting from pets eating contaminated food or the dog getting into the insecticide compound.

Resulting from home and garden insecticides and related products. The dog can obtain a toxic dose if he eats garden plants or walks on freshly treated foliage. Organophosphates may cause toxicity when the dog is dipped in an overly strong solution of flea or tick dip. Reactions to flea collars and dog wormers containing these products may also occur. Pets can be poisoned when these compounds are incorrectly mixed, or when the animals is treated at the same time with the same chemical for both internal and external parasites. Poisoning may occur if these chemicals are inhaled by the pet. Very  small amounts, even the quantity left in an “empty” container, can cause death.

Resulting from ingesting paint solvent, floor wax, dry cleaning solution, gasoline, etc.

Resulting from ingesting rodent poison containing phosphorus. This chemical is present in rat and roach poisons, fireworks, matches and match boxes. Some dogs appear to recover, but in a few days relapse with liver and kidney damage, convulsions, coma.

    Resulting from dips and sprays

Resulting from ingesting material containing the compound, or by eating animals that have been killed by it.

Resulting from ingesting rat poison containing squill. Red squill or squill is not supposed to be dangerous to dogs. It is supposed to cause the dog to vomit before poisoning can result. But it can and often does kill dogs.

Sticky traps are used to catch both insects and rodents. A dog may stumble into one and become stuck to it. Use butter (margarine does not work as well) or a mechanic’s hand-cleaning product to dissolve adhesive material. Then wash the dog in liquid detergent. Rinse VERY, VERY well. These things are more messy than toxic, but it is best not to have the material on the dog.

Resulting from the ingestion of rodent, predator and skunk poison containing strychnine and eating poisoned rodents or birds.

Resulting from ingesting insect, rodent and predator control baits containing thallium.

Resulting from ingesting a large quantity (compared to body size) of chocolate. It has been determined that a 4 oz chocolate bar may be lethal to a 5 lb dog, and 16 oz could kill a 20 lb dog. A little piece of chocolate or chocolate cookie is nothing to worry about with an adult dog.

Resulting from eating or mouthing toads. Although the more poisonous toads are found in the more tropical climates, I had a Dachshund right here in Ohio who was poisoned (not fatally, thank goodness) by a toad. I was right there and saw the toad – and the effect of frothing mouth it produced in the Dachshund. Dogs often find the toads at night in the yard.

Resulting from ingesting pennies, nuts and bolts. Pennies minted after 1982 are made of 96% zinc, and eating just one of them could be fatal. Nuts and bolts may also contain large enough quantities of zinc to poison a dog. These objects usually don’t pass through the digestive tract. Instead they just sit in the stomach and are dissolved by the stomach acid. The zinc compound from reaction with the acid destroys red cells in the dog’s blood.

    Resulting from ingesting rodenticide containing zinc phosphate.