Why do dogs have such a claim on our affections? Why do they have the power to cheer or depress us and why does their neglect fill us with such repugnance?
There is more to it than the fact that they dispense friendliness and love freely and without question. The main reason is their utter dependence. They rely on us completely. In our hands lies the capacity to make their lives happy or miserable, and only the dedicated owner knows the boundless satisfaction which comes from conferring pleasure and contentment on his pet, whether pedigree or mongrel.
But caring is not enough. It must be combined with knowledge.
Contents of this Page:
Commonly Seen Pamphlets on Raising Puppies
What is the best food for a Dachshund puppy?
Is Chicken & Rice a good diet?
BARF (or raw) diets are the best for dogs, aren't they?
Is Cottage Cheese good for my puppy or dog?
Okay, then what IS the best diet for my dog?
What is the proper way to lift a Dachshund?
What is the best way to clean my Dachshund's ears?
Should Dachshunds wear collars?
Puppies have worms, mother is worm-free?
If I feed my dog garlic, he won't get worms?
Tracheo-Bronchitis and vaccinations
Vaccinations - when and how often?
The quality of all vaccines are alike, yes?
How do I choose a veterinarian?
Do dogs need pain medication for surgeries, etc?
Are products made in China safe?
'Made in America' and 'Veterinarian Approved' means safe?
'Natural' 'Holistic' 'Green' 'Healthy' ''Organic, means safe?
Is it okay for my dog/s to discipline the puppy?
What is the best way to discipline a puppy?
What is the best way to hand out treats?
Introducing new puppy to family dog/s
Putting puppy down around strange dogs
Group Playtime with strange dogs is DANGEROUS
Groomers - Don't be taken in - or closed out
Wanting puppy to become friends with another dog
Puppy bonding with a family member
Do Dachshunds have a sense of humor?
Are Dapples and Piebalds rare?
Are blue-eyed Dachshunds rare?
Are 'Double Dapple' Dachshunds rare?
Dachshunds with hearing and/or sight impairment
Can non-Dapples produce Dapples?
Can 'Double Dapples' just 'pop up'?
Can a Dachshund pass on a 'Double Dapple' gene?
Only Dapple gene can cause sight or hearing problems?
Double Dapples and deformities
Coat colors & patterns determined by genes
Can a dog be 3/4 cream (or anything else)?
Having a litter before spaying
'Miniature' and 'Standard' Dachshund puppies
Breed clubs and breed organizations
Length of time a breeder has been in Dachshunds
Does your dog need to see the vet?
Dogs as Family Members
I can't count the number of times I've heard people say "Our dogs are members of our family" and then gone on to hear about their dogs being kept in a crate; or tied outside to a line or tree; or kept in a kennel or barn; or wearing a shock collar in a yard with an invisible/underground fence; or taken to a kennel/day care which was not researched, or being given to a vet to do carte blanche with - unquestioningly.
Hmmmmm....tell me, which OTHER members of your family do you treat like that?
Which of your children/grandchildren are kept in a crate? Or tied outside? Or kept in a kennel or barn? Or wear a shock collar? Or taken to a daycare that you have not interviewed and investigated fully? You wouldn't allow a pediatrician to take your child/grandchild and do whatever he wanted with, accepting absolutely everything he says without question.....why would you a vet? (Just as parents should have rudimentary knowledge about childhood illnesses, nutrition, medications, vaccinations, etc. so should puppy owners have the same about puppy illnesses, nutrition, medications, vaccinations, and so on.)
Just because folks CALL their dogs "family members," it doesn't necessarily mean that they TREAT them like family members.
Dogs are highly intelligent. Dogs feel as much discomfort and physical pain as humans, though their evolutionary development has patterned them to hide it as best they can. Dogs feel emotions just like humans.
This website was created by my husband and myself with lots of superb contributions from our puppy owners for folks who actually TREAT their dogs like family members. If you don't, then please do NOT apply for a puppy.
A frequent complaint emailed to me from rejected applicants:
"The problem with YOU is - you consider/treat puppies as children!"
and my invariable response being:
"And the problem with YOU is - you don't."
If you TRULY consider and TREAT your dog as a beloved member of your family - welcome! We are pleased that you stopped by and hope that the information on these pages might be helpful to you.
Commonly Seen Pamphlets on Raising Puppies
I was absolutely sick to my stomach when Limmy's Mom told me that her local library had pamphlets on how to raise a puppy - you would not BELIEVE what was in them. "For the entire first week, keep the puppy in a cage and away from the family, only letting him out to go potty." "For the second week, bring the puppy to his bed but do not let him get off it except to go potty." !!!!!! I'd like to see those people use that strategy on a human kid - they'd end up with the same thing - a severely distraught (and perhaps permanently emotionally damaged) baby - if not a psychopath.
Why would anyone consider that technique? Easy - pure laziness. They don't have to spend time housetraining. They don't have to spend time puppy-proofing. They don't have to spend time watching the puppy to make sure he doesn't get into trouble. Simple - just stick the puppy in a cage - out of sight, out of mind.
Anyone who does that to a baby puppy is lower than pond scum - and not that much different than the horrid Ohio Amish who keep barns full of dogs/puppies confined in cages, getting rid of many in their despicable "dog auctions."
Passionate? Darned right I'm passionate, and any dog owner who isn't - shouldn't have a dog.
Dachshunds and Other Pets
Dachshunds are hunting dogs, that's what they were bred for. Standards were used to hunt badgers, miniatures were used to hunt rabbits. They have a hunting instinct which cannot be "trained out" of them. I always ask puppy applicants if they have any other pets besides dogs.
Although we have rescue cats, they are kept separated from our Dachshunds (they have the run of the basement, upstairs laundry room, attached garage and huge outdoor pen. We are allergic to cats, but didn't have much of a choice in having them (see The Story of Kali). Since the cats are in another part of the house, our puppies are not raised with cats. The puppies who have been placed in homes with family cats have done very well, the worse case scenario seemed to be when one of our little puppies was pestering a family cat to play with him, by barking constantly at her - until she had enough, and cuffed him upside the head. There was absolutely no damage done, but the puppy's feelings were hurt so badly that he sat down and howled his little heart out.
I do have a concern with folks who have pets other than cats & dogs, and who feel that the Dachshund will "play nicely" with the other pet (mouse, rat, rabbit, bird, hamster, hedgehog, gerbil, ferret, guinea pig, etc.) They might have heard of a Dachshund who was friends with such an animal (even nursing it); but, on the whole, sooner or later, the Dachshund's hunting instinct will probably kick in - with disastrous results. IF you have a type of pet mentioned above, do NOT let it out to "play" with the Dachshund. And just because the Dachshund plays nice once or twice (or even years) with it - that does NOT mean that tragedy cannot happen.
We have a rescue Beagle, which is also a hunting dog. There is a BIG difference in the way our Beagle acts with small rodents & birds than our Dachshunds. Our Beagle might stalk, chase and corner a small animal or bird, and bark her head off, but she does not touch it. Most of our adult Dachshunds would dash in and dispatch it with a quick shake. Unfortunately, I've seen the results in the yard, usually in Spring and early Summer, and often not confined to rodents or birds...but toads, snakes, turtles, etc. I remember seeing one of our Dachshunds rolling up her sleeves and preparing to duke it out with a snapping turtle. (!) Dachshunds don't back down. (Luckily the snapping turtle was on the other side of our chain link fence, trying to get across the yard for some reason, but he was pressed up against the fence and took a tiny chunk out of Rocky's nose. This absolutely enraged her, and she was determined to do battle. (After confining her to the house, I scooped the turtle up into a bucket with a shovel and drove to a public pond where I let him go.)
Dachshunds are darling little dogs, we love them more than any other breed; but please realize they ARE hunting dogs. Keep your other little pets safe. Keep their cages in closed rooms; and do not let the Dachshund near the pet - especially when the pet is out of it's cage.
Choosing a breeder
Mothers-to-be buy every book they can on baby welfare, but millions of people buy puppies with very little knowledge of them.
When you purchase a puppy, you are not only purchasing a puppy, but that breeder's knowledge and experience - which should be available to you for the lifetime of your new puppy. Breeders should give you an understanding of the health of your puppy, describe the type and schedule of wormings & vaccinations and also nutrition; plus other important things for you to know.
I realize that every breeder has his/her own way of doing things, but when a breeder suggests a certain way of doing something, or using a certain product (vaccine, wormer, food, behavior modification, etc.) - always ask "why?"
A good breeder will be able to explain how the product/method works, and why he prefers it rather than another product/method; and not just say, "That's the way it should be done," "I've always done it that way," or "(such-and such breeder/kennel club/vet, etc) told me to do it that way."
A good breeder will want to be involved in the puppy's life; to make sure that the combination of the parents' genes are producing happy and healthy adult dogs - not just cute and cuddly little puppies.
Criteria for a Good Breeder
Does the breeder keep his dogs (ALL the dogs - not just expectant mothers and puppies) in a home versus a kennel?
Does the breeder have an INTIMATE knowledge of both parents - puppyhood, upbringing, care, nutrition, medical information, physical and emotional development, personality? (If the breeder purchases adult dogs to breed, or breeds his females to outside stud dogs - the answer is probably "NO")
Does the breeder have an INTIMATE knowledge of every puppy for sale on their website, detailed information about the parents, pregnancy, whelping, nursing, upbringing, care, etc? (If the breeder sells/advertise puppies for other breeders - the answer is probably "NO")
Does the breeder keep his adult dogs after he is through breeding them? (If not - how on earth does that make him any better than backyard breeders or puppy millers who only look upon dogs solely as money-makers and gets rid of them when they are through breeding them? And how on earth can the breeder require buyers to provide "forever homes" when he doesn't practice that belief himself?)
Does the breeder refrain from breeding 2 breeds together to create "designer puppies"?
Does the breeder breed only 1 or 2 breeds of dogs?
Does the breeder have an IN DEPTH knowledge of dog anatomy, health, illnesses, medications?
Does the breeder have an IN DEPTH knowledge of vaccines & viruses, life cycle of worms, wormers, immunity?
Does the breeder have an IN DEPTH knowledge of genetics?
Does the breeder carefully screen applicants? (versus just handing over a puppy to anyone who wants one?)
Does the breeder want to stay in contact with a puppy owner for the lifetime of the puppy?
Does the breeder intend to respond to requests for assistance from the puppy's owner - for the lifetime of the puppy?
Watch out for Scammers
Please watch out for scammers, especially if you have advertised on the net that you are looking for a puppy.
Boiled down version of conversation I had with an emailer (who evidently confused the word "breeder" with "buyer"):
(him) "I have very nice Dashund puppy for sale, very rare, very cheap. I want good owner to take care of, please."
(me) [yeah, like I'm going to fall for that] "I'm looking for a very special type of Dachshund called an "Appaloosa" is that the type you have?"
(him) "Oh yes! He is much appaloosa! Very beautiful!"
(me) [chuckling while picturing an appaloosa Dachshund] "I intend to train him for chicken racing - so it's important that the puppy be able to run fast, jump high, tunnel and snorkle. Can your puppy be trained for that?"
(him) "Yes - he is doing all those things now!"
(me) [not quite being able to picture a snorkling Dachshund] "I might want to breed him, so it's important that he be checked out by an expert in Scientology."
(him) "That is no problem."
It went on for a little while longer, but you get the picture.
The promises might be different, but one thing won't change - they either want: 1) money up front before handing over the (imaginary) puppy, or 2) ID and/or bank account information "to make money transfer easier."
The scams are getting a bit more sophisticated, but it's still a shame that nice folks are losing a lot of money to these guys.
What is the best food for a Dachshund puppy?
I like the puppies to stay healthy and chubby and prefer them to be fed a special "puppy mush" made up of softened kibble and Goat's Milk. They should stay on that, with dry kibble to munch on, until they are over 12 weeks of age. That way they stay healthy, hydrated and nice and chubby during those important first few months. I think breeders are weaning baby puppies much too early - forcing them from the 100% milk diet of their mother - to a completely dry food in 2 - 3 weeks. That is awfully hard on their digestive system and contributes to dehydration and inability to cope with stress. Our puppies go home with a small tub of mush (already made up, so the new puppy owner can see what the consistency is like), plus enough dry kibble and Goat's milk for a week or two. Goat's milk can be purchased in any grocery store, and there are several brands of good quality kibble available.
I hate it when breeders or vets claim that only one specific brand of food should be fed to all Dachshund puppies. Just as children & adult human beings have different digestive systems, so do puppies & dogs. Rather than specify a brand, I prefer to set criteria regarding the puppy/dog food:
1. Be made of excellent quality ingredients.
2. Create stools that are small and firm.
3. Create nice coat & skin
4. Create good energy level.5. Keep your puppy/dog in good weight.
Some people swear by brands that other people have a problem with. The folks that have my puppies have used Royal Canin, Nutro (Ultra Holistic), and good old Purina Puppy Chow, and probably a lot of others. I tend to like to stay away from the huge food manufacturers (Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, Pedigree, etc), simply because I think the quality of the ingredients they use is probably not as good. But that's just my opinion. Basically - if the food adheres to the criteria listed above, and the puppy does well on it - whatever you use is fine.
I also give my kids (puppies and adults) a spoonful of Dannon Vanilla yogurt every day with a bit of Mirra-Coat powder mixed in. But many folks just give the Dannon Vanilla yogurt. I do think the yogurt helps with digestion and coat & skin.
I use Black Gold Ultimate Puppy for my babies and the Moms & Dads, but it's difficult to find here in Ohio, our local feedstore orders it for us, but we get it in big bags, which would not be practical for a person who has just one or two dogs.It doesn't hurt to try different foods, many come in sample-size or small bags; and see which one the puppy does best on.
Is Chicken & Rice a good diet?
Whenever you have a dog whose digestion is upset, for any reason (old age, illness, weaning), etc. you really can't go wrong putting them on a Chicken & Rice diet....I've raised Dachshunds thru Danes from puppyhood to old age on it exclusively, and they were healthy as could be.
I used to use the huge 20 lb bags of rice that you can get at places like Sam's Club, but I was feeding 10 - 20 dogs. For one or two dogs, the easiest rice to use is the Success Rice (boil in a bag). Takes 10 minutes and is just as good.
I use both chicken and chicken liver, and I prefer the chicken thighs which has nice dark meat and good bones (for the gelatin). Boil up a bunch because then you can make up little baggies of meat and freeze them, taking out only what you need.
1. In a big pot put 9 chicken thighs and 1 container of chicken livers. Put water in - about 2 - 3 inches higher than the meat.
2. Put on very low heat, cover and let it simmer until the meat is falling off the bones.
3. Let cool and then separate onto 3 paper plates - meat on one plate; skin & bones & the hard cartilage at the end of the bones on the 2nd plate, and chicken liver on the 3rd plate.
4. Throw out the plate that has the skin, bones and cartilage.
5. Take sandwich ziplock baggies and divide the meat and chicken liver equally between the baggies - putting both chicken meat and liver into each bag.
6. Put those baggies into a larger gallon ziplock baggie and put in the freezer. (To thaw, just take out a small baggie of the meat & liver, and leave out overnight on a paper towel on a paper plate. In the morning it will be thawed. Refrigerate.)
7. Take the remaining juice & goodie bits that are in the pot and pour into plastic container (I use Glad containers), and put it in the frig. As soon as it's cold, the fat will solidify on the top and you can skim it off with a fork and throw away. What is left is a treasure trove of nutritional gelatin goodness. Keep refrigerated and use as a gravy over the chicken & rice.
8. For meals, take some rice and chicken & liver and mix together. Pour over a little of the gelatin gravy and microwave until it's nice and warm and aromatic. Dogs love it, it's highly nutritious and very easily digestible. (And regarding liver & kidney disfunctions, it's not so much leaving OUT the protein, as using a little protein - but high quality protein - which this is.)
You can mix the rice, chicken, liver & gravy together into a large container and feed it out for meals over 2 - 3 days.
If you are using this for a growing puppy, I would also supplement with either Nutrical or Pet Drops, etc.
Digestion is extremely important - because EVERYTHING stems from it. Stabilizing digestion (and you can use this recipe to do that) should be the first thing you do. If you want to wean the puppy/dog onto another form of dog food (ie kibble), just add it slowly to the chicken & rice meal. If the stools begin getting loose, discontinue that kibble and try another one. But you can keep the dog on this for his/her whole life and they'll do fine. I have.
This recipe is also outstanding as a "flavor enhancement" to dry kibble. If your dog is on a dry kibble that agrees with him (ie, he has firm stools, skin & coat is good, activity level is good, etc) but he dislikes the flavor of the kibble - add some of this chicken, liver, rice & gravy mixture to it - and he'll scarf it up - and it won't interfere with his digestion :-)
BARF (or raw) diets are the best for dogs, aren't they?
After all, dogs' ancestors ate raw meat, and wolves & coyotes in the wild today eat raw meat.
"Dogs' ancestors ate raw meat" So what???? Our ancestors (yours and mine) ate raw meat, too. Does that mean that YOU eat it, too? If not - why not?
"Wolves in the wild today eat raw meat." So what???? There are primitive human communities on earth today which eat raw meat, too. Does that mean that YOU eat it, too? If not - why not?
Why not? because it's dangerous - for both you and your beloved pet.
"Wolves and the ancestors of dogs ate a raw diet - that's how they survive/survived" Um....sure - some of them did/do survive, but do you have any clue about the survival rate? Animals are sometimes forced to eat things in the wild to prevent starvation - that doesn't mean that what they eat doesn't make them sick - or kill them. I won't go into detail here about the problems of parasites, bacteria, viruses and internal damage due to bone ingestion. Besides, zealots who have jumped on the "raw diet" bandwagon don't want to read the information; and sensible people don't need to read it :-) But for those who wish to learn more about it - the links below are excellent: (click on them to be taken to the sites)
Viruses jumping species due to the ingestion of raw meat
The below link leads to one of the very best informational sites on the net regarding the raw food diet for dogs. The link leads to an index with a list of pages on the left:
"Barfers" (as they like to call themselves) have, from the beginning, been a cult-like group that panics and over-reacts if you don't agree with them. They operate on myth and misinformation and are more interested in "converting the masses" and destroying anyone who disagrees with them than actually researching the nutritional needs of dogs.
Is Cottage Cheese good for my puppy or dog?
Dogs need to have a calcium to phosphorus ratio of 2:1 (twice as much calcium as phosphorus). Cottage cheese contains the opposite - more than twice the amount of phosphorus as calcium. Because the puppy's body will try to balance the ratio, it will compensate for the high phosphorus in cottage cheese by pulling calcium right out of those growing bones, cartilage and teeth. (And, by the way, many organ meats have a calcium to phosphorus ration of 1 to 15! - another reason the BARF (raw) diet is unsuitable.
Okay, then what IS the best diet for my dog?
That's like asking "What is the best diet for 'a human being'." A LOT depends on the age of the human, where they live, what they do, what is available, what their nutritional needs are, etc.
The question can only be answered by knowing the following:
What are you trying to achieve? (weight loss, weight gain, stabilize digestion, assist in illness/injury recovery, etc.)
How old is the puppy/dog? (a puppy needs more protein & fat and more nutrients like calcium, than an adult dog)
What is the lifestyle of the puppy/dog? (working dog, energetic puppy, couch potato, etc.)
What breed is the puppy? (Big dog puppies like Great Danes have very different dietary needs than small dog puppies like Miniature Dachshunds)
Does your puppy/dog have any illnesses or concerns that needs a specialized diet?
Worried about the below popular generalizations?
"Changing foods will make my dog picky." Only from personal experience, it never made my kids picky, in fact it made them look forward to each meal. It certainly doesn't hurt to try different types of kibble and see if your puppy/dog does better on a particular one.
"Not changing foods will make my dog bored." If your dog is overweight, "bored with his food" might not be so bad, yes? Have a good quality food available, and when he is hungry enough, he'll eat it! If you have a dog that is doing well on his food and you are worried that he is "missing out" by not being able to enjoy different foods, make him a nice "Sunday dinner" - chicken & rice, (or something similar) and let it be a special once-a-week treat.
Discussion about nutrition, whether human or canine, is FULL of controversy, contradictions, myths, truths, misinformation, and you could spend 24 hours a day studying it and never sorting it all out.
Basically, after the above questions are answered, all you need to know is:
1) Are the ingredients of good quality?
2) Does it make the stools small and firm? (indicating high digestibility)
3) Does it make the coat & skin look in good condition?
4) Does it give my dog enough energy? (either to compete in a Track & Field Event, or stay awake long enough to watch his favorite soap opera)
5) Does it keep my dog in very good weight (puppies should NOT be thin, lean or slender for the first 6 months - they should be slightly chubby.)
Do NOT adhere to the "feeding instructions" on the back of dog food packages, or even your vet (if he says your puppy needs to be slender). It is very important for your puppy to stay chubby and hydrated for the first 6 months. You wouldn't limit the amount of food fed to a growing child, would you? Of course not! YOU are the best judge of whether or not the food is good, and how much to feed your baby. Dachshund puppies are very energetic, and they NEED a lot of food to keep up their energy level. A puppy can lose weight and dehydrate quickly if ill or under stress, by giving them a little "something extra to fall back on" it will give you some measure of insurance that they stay healthy.
It's not brain surgery, it's not rocket science; it's basically common sense.
What is the proper way to lift a Dachshund?
It is important to know how to lift the puppy without damaging his tender limbs or back, or frightening him by causing pain. Be very gentle when handling your puppy. Don't pull him up by his front legs, as his bones are still soft, and this could cause long-term damage. Never lift, or allow a puppy to be lifted,by the scruff of the neck. This is extremely painful and gives him the feeling of being choked. Puppies should never be picked up by the shoulders or around their chest or middle. Never hold a Dachshund around the chest or middle - letting his back legs dangle without support.
To lift any dog, and especially long-backed dogs like Dachshunds (adults and puppies), place one hand under the chest and the other under his hindquarters, and slowly and firmly lift keeping his body horizontal and close to your body.
What is the best way to clean my Dachshund's ears?
An excellent suggestion from Harvey's Mom, Leslie:
"I always try to use things that are non-toxic and edible if possible and my vet always recomends using a little white vinegar in water (about 1 part vinegar to 5 parts water) on a q-tip for ear cleaning. It is mild and ear mites hate it. I had an ear spray from the vet for Henry once and he hated having it put in his ears! Plus, it was actually an insecticide! I don't have to worry if Henry or Harvey decide to lick each others little ears after using a mild vinegar solution for cleaning."
Dachshunds and exercise?
Dachshunds and exercise, I've heard that they should never have exercise, and then I've heard they should have lots of exercise - which is correct?
Exercise is extremely important for Dachshunds - but the right kind of exercise is even more important. Lots of the correct kind of exercise helps strengthen and tighten muscles which surround the spinal column, helping to prevent back problems.
Good Exercise: Walking, Running (not forced), Swimming
Bad Exercise: Jumping up or down (ie onto or off from furniture), running up or down stairs, sitting up (as in sitting up to beg) or jumping up on hind legs.
Very Bad Exercise: "Forced exercise" (ie having to keep up with a running or jogging human companion)
Many Dachshunds are extremely athletic and it's difficult to keep them from jumping up onto and down from furniture. It's a good idea to purchase (or make) little doggy steps and put them next to beds, chairs, couches, etc so the Dachshunds do not have to jump to get up or down. (We use "Deluxe Doggy Steps" which we purchase at Petco for $27. They are made of very sturdy plastic, are durable, easy to assemble (no tools), and have an easily washable faux sheepskin cover.) Ramps are even better - see the page "Dachshund Ramps."
Should Dachshunds wear collars?
I never, ever, put collars on my Dachshunds. Our Dachshunds wear harnesses when they are off our property. Collars can get caught on objects - furniture, fences, even on part of a crate when the dog is inside - and can strangle them. This happened to dogs which belonged to a couple friends of ours.
I used to have collars on all our dogs. But one day I was horrified by screaming coming from the back yard and found that, during play, one dog had gotten his bottom jaw underneath the collar of another and both were frantically twisting trying to get loose. During their frantic struggle, the collar was twisting. One dog was being nearly strangled with the collar tightening around his throat and the other dog's bottom jaw was bleeding profusely. I ran for a knife and managed to cut the collar, but my knees were shaking. And that was the LAST time I EVER let one of my precious kids run around with a collar on. Thinking about it - I don't know of any parent who would let a toddler run around with a necklace or chain (or anything similar) around his neck. If it got caught on something....bye bye baby.
Reasons why I do not recommend using collars on my puppies (besides the safety aspect mentioned above):
- They are not used to wearing anything around their neck and will likely fight it.
- They are apt to dash and if they come up suddenly at the end of a leash, it will give their neck a jerk; and it's dangerous for dogs (especially Dachshunds) to have their neck/spine stressed in any way.
- If you absolutely need to jerk the puppy back from a sudden and immediate dangerous situation (if they are in imminent danger), jerking with a harness can be done quickly and relatively safely (unlike a collar).
Harnesses have a little metal ring near the top of the shoulder area where you attach the leash and can also be used to attach their license & rabies tags.
But when they are inside my house or in my escape-proof yard? Nothing on their neck - absolutely nothing. (Our back yard is triple fenced and the inside fence is a secure 6 foot chain link fence, 5 feet above ground and 1 foot buried in the ground.)
Hiccups and worms?
When my Dachshund puppy gets the hiccups, does it mean he has worms?
Just as it is common for babies to get the hiccups, so it is for puppies. Many people feel this is a sign of worms in puppies, but in most cases, it's not. In the young, hiccups are most often caused by involuntary movements of the diaphragm, the large muscle that separates the chest cavity from the abdomen. The contractions and relaxations of this muscle allows us to breathe. The diaphragm is controlled by the phrenic nerve. As animals are growing or developing there may be an incoordination between this nerve and the diaphragm causing a muscle spasm within the diaphragm that results in hiccups. This is common in puppies just as it is in human babies. So don't think that your puppy has worms just because of an occasional bout of hiccups. In most cases it's just part of the growing up process in which the different parts of the body are learning to work together (in this case the phrenic nerve and the diaphragm.)
Scooting his rear end?
If my Dachshund scoots his rear end, does that mean he has worms?
Some dogs scoot because of parasites like tapeworm because segments of the worm are passed through the anus, but it is highly unlikely that little puppies are even old enough to have tapeworm. However the action of scooting simply means the dog has an itch. Usually the scooting means the anal glands need attending, or in the case of little puppies who often nibble on twigs, grass and other inedibles - the foreign items itch as they pass through the rectum and anus.
How can puppies have worms if their mother is worm-free?
Animals are most susceptible to these parasites when they are young. As they grow older, an effective immunization usually develops against some of the invaders (ie they become dormant in adult dogs). However, during a pregnancy this immunization lapses (ie pregnancy breaks the dormancy). To compound the problem, parasites can travel through the placental circulation system and infect the unborn. Ironically, parasites can also infect nursing puppies through the mother's milk, which at the same time is passing along immunities to other health threats.That is why puppies are routinely given a series of worming medications.
If I feed my dog garlic, he won't get worms?
Garlic won't prevent worms (and, by the way, kissing your dog won't give you worms, either).
Parvo and vaccinations
I heard of a puppy who came down with Parvo even though he had been vaccinated, how could that have happened?
I can think of three possible reasons for that happening:
- The puppy was not given a complete series of vaccinations.
- The vaccines used were of poor quality
- The puppy was over-vaccinated (ie given a modified live vaccine too frequently instead of having the vaccinations properly spaced 4 weeks apart.)
Tracheo-Bronchitis and vaccinations
My puppy came down with Tracheo-Bronchitis a week after I used the intra-nasal vaccine which was supposed to prevent it - how come?
Unfortunately, there is a popular intra-nasal vaccine on the market today (manufactured by a huge drug company) which is too strong. The drug company, and distributors who sell it, claim that the post-vaccination reaction is "Canine Cough Syndrome" - which is a bunch of horse-hockey. They figured if they put a fancy "syndrome" name on the reaction, it will convince folks that it isn't really tracheo-bronchitis at all (the very virus that the vaccine is supposed to prevent). But all you have to do is administer the trachea pressure test, and you will see that it is, indeed, tracheo-bronchitis.
The drug company and distributors might say, "We've sold a LOT of these vaccines, and severe post-vaccination reactions are very rare." Yeah - right - and how many of those breeders/vets who administered the vaccines slept in the same room with those puppies??? If their puppies live in a kennel or another room, how in the Sam Hill could they KNOW if those poor puppies were coughing all night long? Our babies sleep in the same room with us, and it was heartbreaking to hear them hacking and hoarsely coughing ALL night long. We rushed them to our vet who treated them with anti-inflammatories and antibiotics which helped ease the coughing.
Her advice was to stay far, far away from Bordatella intra-nasal vaccines.......FAR away.
'Series' of vaccinations?
Why do puppies have to have a "series" of vaccinations?
While nursing, a puppy receives a degree of immunity to some canine diseases through the mother's milk (particularly the colostrum). The immunity passed from the mother to the puppy is only for those diseases the mother has been exposed to and recovered from, or has been vaccinated against. The puppy is protected by the "maternal immunity" anywhere from 4 to 12 weeks. This "maternal immunity" passed to the puppy can interfere with a vaccination's effectiveness and it is difficult to determine when this immunity is depleted, which is why puppies need to be vaccinated early and given a number of doses.
Vaccinations - when and how often?
When should a puppy be given his first vaccination and how often should he be vaccinated?
There are different kinds of vaccines – killed vaccines, modified live vaccines, combination vaccines, etc. If the mother of the puppy has been properly vaccinated, there is absolutely no need to begin vaccinations earlier than 5 - 6 weeks. (If the mother has not been vaccinated, then a killed vaccine may be given earlier.) Ideally, a puppy should be ready for his new home at 8 weeks of age. Modified live vaccines should NEVER be given closer than 3 weeks apart (they should preferably be given 4 weeks apart); therefore, if a puppy has been vaccinated at 5 or 6 weeks – the minimum age for his second vaccination should be 8 or 9 weeks, respectively.
Breeders who stress that their puppies have “two vaccinations before leaving” (and if they are using modified live vaccines and if they place their puppies at 8 weeks of age) can be over-vaccinating their puppies – particularly if they have stipulated in a contract that the puppy must be seen by a licensed veterinarian “2 – 7 days after purchase”, at which time the vet may routinely administer another vaccination.
I have heard of breeders insisting on giving modified live vaccines every two weeks (!) Every four weeks is sufficient – no matter what breed. Over-immunizing animals is common knowledge among immunologists. I won’t go into details, but not only will the over-immunized puppy not produce more antibodies, it’s own immune system will be compromised making it susceptible to the very illnesses it is being vaccinated against.
The quality of all vaccines are alike, yes?
The quality of all vaccines are not alike. The cheap off-brand vaccines that can be purchased at feed stores (or pet stores) have been through several hands - the manufacturer, the distributor, the main store, the retail store, etc. During all those moves, they might not have been kept refrigerated the whole time, and lost their effectiveness.
If you purchase your own vaccines - be sure they are one of the well-known top brands. Purchase them from a well-known supplier and have them shipped overnight on ice. Refrigerate them immediately, keep them wrapped in foil to limit exposure to light, and use before the expiration date.
How do I choose a veterinarian?
At about the same time you decide to get a puppy, begin looking for the veterinarian who will provide the health services he will periodically require through his life. These services range from routine examination and preventative care to treatment of acute illnesses and life-threatening emergencies. The three main factors to consider in making your choice are professional competence, the facilities and equipment available for diagnosis and treatment, and the attitudes and personality of the veterinarian as they may affect your relationship.
As you look around the facilities, make sure the office, examination and treatment rooms are clean and well equipped. Do the patients look well cared for and reasonably content? Are healthy animals kept separated from sick ones? If boarding is available, are the housing and exercise facilities adequate? The facility should be conveniently located and open at hours that are reasonable for you. It should be covered by a twenty-four-hour emergency service - this is most important. Moreover, the staff should be friendly and enjoy caring for your pet. It is important to have a vet who responds well to you and especially to your dog. See if the vet takes time to talk to him and reassure him and also is knowledgeable and informative when you ask questions. The veterinarian’s personality should mesh with yours, and the charges should be acceptable to you.
You and the veterinarian will act as a team to provide the health care your dog will need over the course of many years.
Stay away from veterinarians who:
- are associated with Pet Stores, Dog Auctions, etc. They have a financial interest in keeping the Pet Stores and Auctioneers happy, they will NOT have your puppy's best interest at heart.
- offer "Puppy Wellness Packets." The cheaper ones ($200 - $300) contain unnecessary and possibly detrimental procedures, such as; several fecal tests (ONE is all you need AFTER the puppy has finished his course of puppy wormings - to make sure that all the wormings have done their job); dangerous "combination" shots; and toxic flea & heartworm prevention pills and drops. I am NOT against flea & heartworm prevention, but I do NOT care for the most expensive, most recent {and usually least researched) products that the vets use. You can purchase the very same (or better) products (which will be less expensive) over the counter - IF you know the proper items to look for and how to dose them properly.
- and stay FAR away from vets who offer the terribly expensive "Puppy Wellness Packets - from $500 on up. (These vets are commonly associated with Pet Stores.) I saw a pamphlet advertising that "service" from an unscrupulous vet clinic next door to (or was it inside?) a Pet Store - it contained a list of procedures deliberately written in "medical jargon" to sound high falutin' and confusing to folks, and made me madder than a wet hen; because it was chock full of ludicrous procedures that were absolutely unnecessary for a young puppy. Those type of vets play on the emotional love that folks have for their pets, but have only one goal in mind - to pick their clients' pockets clean while offering nothing in return.The "procedures" offered came to about a total of $30 their cost, and they were charging $700 for it. Unbelievable!
Personally, I want to know if they are a member of the American Animal Hospital Association, do they provide laser surgery, do they have their own in-house lab, and do they do their own emergencies - and not shuffle their clients off to some "Emergency Service."
Make SURE that there is someone at the clinic ALL NIGHT LONG. A friend of mine worked in a vet clinic and one night it caught fire (arson was suspected). Since there was no one there, the fire quickly spread out of control and by the time people arrived they could hear the animals screaming....until the oxygen tanks in the operating room blew up. The building burned to the ground - there were no survivors. Besides the fear of fire and burglars after the controlled drugs, how on earth can the clinic monitor your very sick dog if no one is there?
When we moved here, we had a small terrier with a slight skin problem (cause & treatment already known) and we visited all the vets in our area. It was to see how they treated us and our beloved terrier, what their office visit prices were, what their diagnosis was and what (if any) further tests they recommended. For the cost of several office visits, we were able to compare each one and make an informed decision on which to choose.
Do dogs need pain medication for surgeries, etc?
For many reasons, pain relief for animals has often been less of a priority than it is for humans. There are many reasons pain relief is not routinely provided to animals. Perhaps the most common is that the amount of pain endured is often underestimated because animals cannot tell you how they feel, also they often try to hide the pain (in the wild an animal who shows pain is the one the predators go for first). Side effects are another reason for under-use of many pain-relieving drugs. Some traditional human pain relievers are potentially toxic to dogs. Another common reason for ignoring pain is the mistaken assumption that pain is Mother Nature's way of keeping the patient restrained to prevent it from harming itself. But studies clearly prove that pain increases movement and prevents rest. Animals provided with pain relief are more comfortable, move about much less and recover more quickly.
Because canine behavior is a poor indicator of pain, a good rule to follow for providing pain relief is: A procedure that is known to be painful in humans should be treated as such in veterinary patients. This includes bone surgery, dental extractions, abdominal or chest surgery, major trauma or chronically painful diseases such as cancer or arthritis. Our dogs do feel pain and do deserve to get relief.
Many vets call Carprofen (aka Rimadyl, Novox) "pain pills." They are NOT pain pills - they are anti-inflammatories. Carprofen is a NSAID (Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drug) and is commonly used to relieve arthritis inflammation - it is NOT going to relieve pain from a surgical operation. That would be like a doctor handing you an ibuprofen (aka Advil) pill after your surgery and calling it a "pain pill" instead of giving you demerol or codeine.
I insist on a narcotic pain reliever for the females. I'd like to see a vet have their abdomen opened and messed around with inside, and recover using just Carprofen. The narcotic pain reliever keeps the females comfortable and quiet for the first couple days (only occasionally will a female need it longer), and the difference between using that and Carprofen is night and day. Anyone who is truly in tune with their dogs can see it immediately.
For males after neutering, if the vet prescribes Carprofen (aka Rimadyl, Novox) that's fine <shrug> - but call the medication what it IS - an anti-inflammatory - NOT a pain pill.
Are products made in China safe?
After all the recalls of items made in China; pet food, pet snacks, baby formula, toys, dishes & bowls, etc., I recommend that ANY products which will come in contact with your puppy's mouth be made in the United States, and (hopefully) not contain ANY ingredients, chemicals or materials that come from China, Taiwan, Mexico, Argentina, etc.
I was appalled that not only every major pet food company (either themselves or via a subsidiary company) were involved in the recall, but also the pet food sold by veterinarians. And I am incredulous after a recent shopping trip that every single store in our town had only "non-US made" puppy toys and rawhide treats (with the exception of two toys, the horrible & dangerous nylabones and the heavy, tough plastic toys which were not suitable for baby Dachshunds). Even a rawhide chew clearly labeled with the Brand Name "Milk Bone" was, upon checking the label, made in China!
I highly recommend that pet food, pet snacks, rawhide items, toys, and food & water dishes be "100% US made." Instead of pandering to the cheap, highly unregulated and questionable quality (and possibly dangerous) items that are foreign made - lets support safe and non-toxic "US made" items for our pets.
An owner of a new puppy emailed and asked me to recommend some rawhide chews and toys for her new baby, from a well-known (and formerly reputable) online business which specializes in vaccines and animal products. I looked at the site and chose a selection of 3 rawhide toy treats which I thought the tiny puppy would enjoy. Not until an hour later when my husband reminded me, did I hastily email her again and told her to make sure that the rawhide chew toys were made in the US. She immediately contacted the company who told her that all the rawhide was "non US made" and even though she had only placed her order an hour or so previously, they refused to cancel her order - saying that she could return the items and they would "credit her account." That told me, right then and there, that they were using a dropshipper (probably a cheap import company) for the rawhide they were selling and were just forwarding the orders to them. I had dealt with this particular online business for over 20 years; and would NEVER have expected them to do anything like that. So just because a business or company is "well known" and/or "reputable" - do NOT assume that all their products will be safe. Ask, ask, ask.....and closely examine the label of everything you purchase for your pet; and make sure that it's not made in a foreign country.
It's a very sad state of affairs when you have to investigate every little thing you purchase for your pet, and not take the "veterinarian approved" labels at face value. But in a society where profit is often the bottom line and gimmicks abound; I'd rather be safe than sorry when it comes to my precious kids.
Additional notation: I just re-visited that (formerly reputable) business and right on their website they have stated: "[their company name] goes to great lengths to ensure that our rawhide chews are the absolute best. Made from premium beef hide, produced in the U.S.A., our rawhide is created only by manufacturers we trust to adhere strictly to our approved manufacturing processes, and consistently live up to our high quality standards."
What a crock! They advertise on their rawhide pages that the "beef hide is produced in the US", and yet when folks call them and ask if the rawhide is US-made, they admit that it is imported from China and Argentina !!!!!
'Made in America' and 'Veterinarian Approved' means safe?
So products labeled "Made in America" and "Veterinarian Approved" means they are safe, right?
No - and let me tell you why. I had no idea until just now that any product that is packaged or assembled in America (regardless of where the contents/ingredients came from or where it was processed/manufactured) can legally display the label "Made in America." (!)
Right this minute, I am looking at a small package of "Rawhide Twists" (small sticks of twisted rawhide.) The front of the plastic package has big letters right at the top "AMERICAN Rawhide" and beneath "Made in America" and "Veterinarian Recommended." Turning it over, there is a tiny, thin sticker (easily removed and halfway off already) that states "100% American Beefhide, Packaged in the USA and Processed in Mexico." That sticker could EASILY have come off and you would never know by looking at the package that the rawhide was processed in Mexico. So don't believe any of the "Made in America" labels. If the package doesn't say that the contents were:
- made 100% from US materials/ingredients, and
- processed/manufactured in the US, and
- packaged in the US
CALL the company and ask those questions.
There ARE brand name rawhide items that are completely made here in the US, however some of the items contain bone, be careful and look the product over carefully, and do not purchase those items containing bone for your Dachshund.
Update: "Exer-Hides" "Rawhide Chips for Dogs" purchased at Wal-Mart have the words "Made in USA" on the back of the package. I emailed Wal-Mart and received this just now from cstreply@wal-mart.com: "
"Dear Jan
"Thank you for contacting us about the Exer-Hides Rawhide Chips. We have forwarded your request to our buying office and we have received the following information to share with you.
"As per our buying office, The product is made in Brazil, of Brazilian bovine hide and sent to the USA in large super sacks. We package the product in the US, with packaging materials from the US."
Anyone can whack a label that says "Veterinarian Approved" or "Approved by Veterinarians" on a product - but it's only a selling gimmick - don't fall for it.
'Natural' 'Holistic' 'Green' 'Healthy' ''Organic, means safe?
No...no....no...no...no....no.....<shaking head> Really LEARN about the product - do not fall for the marketing gimmicks and phrases that companies use to sell things.
Ask the "Big Three" questions:
1. Does the product contain 100% US ingredients
2. Is the product manufactured/proccessed (or assembled in the case of toys, etc) in the US
3. Is the product packaged/labeled in the US
For medications and treats - Read The Label! No - not the "Brand Name" & gimmick phrases which are in big letters on the front. Turn the item over and read the ingredients (usually in small print).
Once you start reading ingredient labels - whether on pet products or people products, I'll bet you'll be amazed.
For instance - do you know what the difference is between 1) "Benedryl" and 2) "Sominex" ? NOTHING - Read the ingredient label! Both have the active ingredient "diphenhydramine" - which is an antihistamine. Since diphenhydramine usually makes people sleepy - it is also allowed to be marketed as a "sleep aid (ie Sominex)."
Do you know the difference between 1) Tylenol PM and 2) a regular tylenol with either Benedryl or Sominex? NOTHING! Tylenol PM is only acetaminophin plus diphenhydramine.
Do you know the difference between 1) Anacin and 2) a regular aspirin and a cup of coffee? NOTHING! The ingredients in Anacin are aspirin and caffeine - read the label.
Learn to read ingredient labels - for everything. Do NOT rely on the marketing hype which "claim" this or that.
And I do think it's important for things that will be ingested or come into contact with your pet's mouth be made of 100% US ingredients, processed/manufactured here in the US, and packaged/labeled in the US. Do you know how many medications - even human prescription medications - use ingredients supplied from China - or are even MADE in China? Never mind, that's another story.
Because you adore your beloved pet and want the best for him/her - PLEASE read the ingredient labels, or contact the company and find out what the ingredients/contents are. Also find out answers to the "Big Three" questions (above). Do NOT rely on marketing hype and gimmicky phrases.
Update: I went to an "Only Natural" online store that proclaimed their pet treats were "natural" "holistic" & "organic" (and all in one sentence....lololol). Searching their site trying to find if their treats were made here in the US or imported was like looking all around Robin Hood's barn. I emailed and asked them point blank the "Big Three" questions about their treats. I received this response:
[Quote]
We do carry some treats and items that are made in China. However, these items will include a special statement online. For example: "[_____] treats contain NO Pesticides, NO Melamine, NO Bacteria and NO Contaminants. [_______] tests all of their treats at an independent third party FDA approved laboratory and they have USDA approved import permits in every state in the U.S. Their manufacturing facilities are USDA approved."
[Unquote]
How in the name of Jumpin' Jehosephat is ANYONE expected to deduce from the above "special statement" that the stuff comes from China? Especially given the name of the website and the description on it of their products being "natural, "holistic" and "organic?" What a bunch of horse hockey!
For the sake of your pet's health - be an INFORMED consumer, and do NOT be afraid to ask point-blank questions (not only about things you purchase for your pet, but also what your veterinarian is prescribing).
Are Snuggle Puppies safe?
Are the Snuggle Puppies (the ones with a heartbeat and warmer) safe?
No. Even if they were not made in China (which they are), the fact that they contain batteries and hand/foot warmer packets make them unsafe for puppies. Some claim to have an opening for a babybottle, which of course would be extremely bad for a puppy to use since no one would be tipping the bottle to make sure the puppy did not ingest air.
Another example of how folks are looking for an "easy out" - a way to not have to properly care for a puppy (just like crates); stick the poor puppy in a crate, or plop the puppy down with a Snuggle Puppy - and just forget about him instead of properly spending time training, loving and comforting the baby.
Is it okay for my dog/s to discipline the puppy?
(This pertains to family dogs.)
99 times out of 100 - yes. All animals (humans and dogs alike) have an innate sense of proper behavior and manners, and training children (2-legged or 4-legged) is part of life. Our puppies are taught by their mother, their siblings and finally the older dogs in our home. Most dogs will instinctively know how to properly discipline a puppy.
The ONLY time you'll need to interfere is if the discipline is physically harming the puppy (resulting in scratches cuts, bleeding), making the puppy scream nonstop, or if the disciplinarian is standing over the puppy for a LONG time (extended minutes) while the puppy is submitting (usually on his back). In other words, don't interfere as long as the puppy is not physically or emotionally injured. If you have happy, healthy and well-adjusted dogs, they will likely discipline the puppy properly.
Adult Dachshunds will frequently discipline a puppy by sitting on him. That means "Time Out" or "Chill." It tells the puppy, "I don't like what you are doing, so now I'm going to physically prevent you from doing it." It's humane, it's effective - and it gets the point across. Don't stop your adult Dachshund from doing this. Your little puppy is going to learn MORE about manners and good behavior from your other dog/s than from you.
Hubby just reminded me of something. This pertains to Danes, who have a different way of telling a puppy to "chill". Naturally they don't "sit" on puppies because they know their huge weight would hurt them, so they do a "time out" a bit differently. Example: Eagle was a little 8-week-old rescue Dane puppy (about 20 lbs) and she was up on the couch with Sundance (a 180-lb male Dane). She was pulling his lip, grabbing it and backing up. He tried to let her know by a soft growl that he didn't like what she was doing. But she was deaf (she was white and born stone deaf) so she didn't respond to his warnings. Finally he lifted a paw and put it on top of her - pinning her down; not hurting her, but preventing her from pulling his lip; and although she struggled, she couldn't get up. He realized that she was not responding to the "normal" warnings (growling) and decided to give her a "time out" by physically preventing her from doing what she was doing. Once she chilled for a few minutes, he let her up - and she DIDN'T go back to pulling his lip.
However, if you have a handicapped dog (sight and/or hearing-impaired, crippled) or a sick dog, or a very old dog - they are NOT likely to be appropriate disciplinarians. There are exceptions of course, but I believe that, in general, handicapped, sick or very old dogs have a tendency to be much too harsh in their discipline, perhaps because they feel threatened or vulnerable? I don't know. But watch a handicapped, sick or very old dog closely with a little puppy, and if the puppy is bothering him/her - intervene immediately.
What is the best way to discipline a puppy?
Puppies respond to positive reinforcement, that is - rewarding good behavior. Negative enforcement can be emotionally damaging to a puppy if it is too harsh; or it can be ineffective if done lightly while laughing or if the puppy views it as a game.
Puppies learn a LOT by observing older dogs. That is why many folks will get a puppy while they still have an older dog. Puppies can learn a lot from each other, also; especially regarding which type of play is appropriate and will be tolerated.
There are times when it will be necessary to discipline a puppy - they need to learn right from wrong just like any other children. Personally, I dislike using physical discipline, and only use it if a dog is hurting another dog or a person. Fighting is not tolerated in our home.
For times when verbal discipline is not enough, but the situation does not warrant physical (hands on) discipline, I have found that "aversion training" with a squirt bottle works very well. Always remember to use the verbal command FIRST, thereby giving the puppy the opportunity to obey; then if he continues the behavior - use the squirt bottle (filled with water only). You'll be surprised how quickly he will learn.
What is the best way to hand out treats?
Train your dog to take treats gently from hands. If your dog is a "grabber" he might inadvertently nip you. For "grabbers" close the treat in your fist, covering it completely, back of the hand upward, and then put your fisted hand in front of the dog's nose and let him smell that you have a treat. If he tries to grab, "NO!" in a firm tone, but do not draw your hand back. Wait until he is quiet and no longer attempting to grab and then, very slowly, turn your fisted hand over so the back of the hand is facing down. Keep your fist closed. Allow him to sniff, but if there is any attempt to grab, "NO!" - and do not open your fingers until he is quiet and no longer attempting to grab (sniffing is okay). Then slowly, slowly, slowly open your fingers. Typically dogs will then gently take the treat. "Good Boy!" You will need to do this quite a few times with "grabbers", but they will eventually learn not to grab.
The very worst thing you can do with "grabbers" is to show them a treat and hold it just out of their reach and keep saying "No....No...No..." or "Wait....Wait....Wait..." OR pulling the treat back when they try to grab - those actions are perceived as taunting and of COURSE they will grab for it. Keep the treat in your fist and immediately place your fist in front of the dog's nose - so he will have no need to grab for it.
Another thing - before you hand out a treat or a spoonful of yogurt - say the dog's name. Let him KNOW that this is for HIM- and him only. Don't let 2 or more dogs start grabbing for something they each "perceive" is theirs, or something they think they'd better get before the other dog does. That creates "grabbers" and contributes to quarreling between the dogs. As soon as each dog KNOWS they will get their treat in turn, they will all wait quietly and patiently for it.
And first come, first serve - the dog that was in the home the longest should be given the treat first, then the next longest resident, etc. etc. etc. - regardless of actual age.
If you have a pill or something that you want to give one dog, but not the other, make sure that ALL the dogs (in their turn) get some kind of treat. That will help prevent jealously.
Introducing new puppy to family dog/s
How do I introduce my new little puppy to other family dogs?
(This pertains to FAMILY dogs - that is, dogs that LIVE in the same house as the puppy.)
Each new owner of one of our puppies gets "Special Instruction Sheets" that are tailored for that particular puppy and the family (including other dogs) he will be going to. Introducing the puppy to family dogs is fully covered in those sheets. However, sometimes folks visit with their dogs, or you meet another dog while out on walks and want the puppy and dog to become friends. Our little puppies are raised around lots of other dogs - so they automatically assume that any dog is going to be their friend and might run at the dog trying to initiate play. The older dog might be a bit taken back at having a little whippersnapper dashing right up to him and nipping at his paws...lololol
Sit on the floor and take the puppy in your lap, then have the other dog's owner sit beside you and call his dog. While the new owner speaks to his dog and pets the baby puppy, allow the dog to sniff the puppy all over - for as long as he wants - as long as the puppy is not frightened. While he does this hold the puppy so he doesn't run after the dog. Allow the dog to satisfy his/her curiosity about the puppy. Then the little puppy won't seem so strange and intimidating, and the older dog will be more likely to play with, or at least tolerate, the new baby.
Putting puppy down around strange dogs
Can't I just put my puppy down around strange dogs?
(This pertains to non-family dogs - and this includes relatives' dogs who do NOT live in the same house as the puppy.)
Whenever you have your puppy with a strange dog OR a bunch of strange dogs - particularly male/s or large, NEVER put him on the floor to fend for himself (!)
Cowering down or squealing in fright can be an invitation for another dog (or other dogs) to jump the puppy and hurt him badly - if not kill him. I've seen it - and it happens in a split second. Keep the puppy in your arms and if HE wants to sniff a dog, and the dog is agreeable, then allow the puppy to do so.If another dog wants to sniff your puppy, and your puppy is reluctant - do NOT ever allow it.
Having dogs together who don't know each other can be VERY dangerous...folks tend to think that they are like children and you can just put two (or a bunch) together who don't know each other. NOPE! That is a recipe for disaster. Dogs can be very quick, and if one dog or puppy squeals in fright or pain, there is a good chance that the rest of the pack will jump on the dog/puppy and tear it apart. Not nice, but that's part of "pack mentality." Never, never, never put your puppy down around a strange dog - let alone a bunch of strange dogs.
Idiots who think it's soooooo cute to see a tiny little puppy run up to a large dog who is obviously uncomfortable (or timid) around the puppy are ignorant. It's NOT cute. The large dog is NOT acting - he doesn't want the puppy around him. Allowing the puppy to invade his space is an invitation to disaster; if the large dog lunges or reacts self-defensively, the puppy could be injured - or at the very least, be severely startled; and you DON'T want to put a little puppy (or a large dog) in that position. People who think it's cute need to grow a brain.
And don't ever let any stranger, especially a child, pick your puppy up - I don't care if the person/child knows how to properly lift Dachshunds or not. Your puppy will tell you when HE want to be picked up by another person. If the puppy wants the person to pick him up (properly) fine, but otherwise - never, never, never.
Group Playtime with strange dogs is DANGEROUS
There are quite a few "Doggy Day Cares" and nationwide boarding facilities that put groups of unfamiliar dogs together for a "group playtime."
These people (either misguided or deliberately deceitful) want to convince folks that dogs will act just like children and "play nicely" as if in some kind of fantasy kindergarten or fantasy summer camp. You cannot expect a group of dogs to act like a group of children....period. In actuality, putting a group of strange dogs together is a recipe for disaster because dogs are governed by pack behavior. Ever hear one dog start howling and the others join in? Ever see one dog get excited and start barking - and the others join in? That is pack behavior.Someone recently mentioned that she worked at one of the boarding facilities that promoted "group playtime," and told me that, because each dog is "interviewed," the safety of every dog there is assured. She also said that employees carry squirt guns/bottles and have access to water hoses in case a fight breaks out. Obviously she was very inexperienced in breaking up dog fights. Squirt guns and hoses will do nothing but further enrage dogs who are seriously fighting. (Dogs are not cats. Cats have a strong inborn dislike of water - dogs don't. Dogs might not like getting squirted in the face with a spray bottle, but if you think getting sprayed with water is going to stop one dog from killing another - whether it's Great Danes, Labs or Chihuahuas - you are very much mistaken.) It takes a lot of skill and savvy to break up an honest-to-goodness fight without getting injured yourself. And if you have 2 seriously fighting dogs among a group of strange dogs....you are asking for an unimaginable bloody mess because other dogs are more than likely to join in. That is pack behavior.
This is because the evolutionary development of animals has always been on a predator/prey type scenario. And perhaps humans had a similar scenario way back in history, but they evolved into completely different social structures than animals. Any animal who showed pain (or exhibited unusual behavior or sound) was the one targeted by the predator and not likely to last long. Many species (including wolves, coyotes, dingos, etc) actually kill members of their own pack if the animal is exhibiting abnormal behavior (in movement or sound)....he would be a danger to the pack, you see; inviting the attention of predators. That is part of "pack behavior" - it's how canines evolved.
One surprised yelp (even from a simple unexpected butt sniff) and other dogs could join in a frenzy of attacking the dog who yelped, or who gave a defensive growl because he was scared, or who was feeling ill that day and acted frightened - and the poor dog could be seriously injured or even torn apart before anyone could help.
And there is no way on God's green earth that a stranger can evaluate or "interview" a dog in 20 - 30 minutes and determine whether or not that dog will ever be a threat to another dog. It's just not that simple. Dogs are governed by pack behavior - and even though a dog is not aggressive to another while "being interviewed," he could very well become aggressive when among a group of strange dogs if a fight breaks out. It's not a reflection on that particular dog's personality or emotional health - it's simply a result of pack behavior.
Why are these people disregarding common sense and putting strange dogs together like this? Money. Some of these boarding facilities are evidently some kind of franchise, and the start up fees run over $100,000. It's a money-making scheme that tries to attract gullible people into purchasing a franchise and gullible dog owners into using the facilities.Gimmicky phrases like calling the dogs "campers" and making the facility sound like a real kindergarten or a real camp is just to bait folks into using them. Do not be taken in.
When I pointed out the dangers of "Group Playtime" to the person, and followed it with reviews I'd found on the net from folks who had picked up their dogs and found they were injured physically (gashes, cuts) and emotionally (shaking, displaying abnormal behavior),etc. - she accused me of "just looking for problems." Yup - DARN RIGHT I look for problems! Responsible pet owners (like responsible parents) will try to anticipate dangerous situations and avoid them at all cost. Children and pets are totally dependent upon us to ensure their safety; and if we do not do so, shame on us.
Please, please, please - never allow your dog to be part of any "group playtime" with strange dogs, whether at a boarding or daycare facility or at a dog park - you could be putting your dog in terrible, if not mortal, danger.
Groomers - Don't be taken in - or closed out
Like the marketing gimmicks of:
I've touched on the first two in previous paragraphs, but I haven't mentioned groomers or grooming much, and I'd like to make 2 points:
- food/treats being labeled "all natural" "holistic" etc. trying to make you think they are healthy, when in fact many are products from China or some other foreign country
- boarding kennels calling themselves "camps" and "retreats" etc., trying to make you think that they are special "fun places" and not really boarding kennels
- groomers calling themselves "spas", trying to make you think that they are more than groomers and that your dog is going to absolutely love all the strange things that are being done to him.
1. Dogs get bathed too often, and it's not necessary. Dogs don't need baths like humans. Humans have sweat glands all over their body - which is why they need to bathe. Dogs don't use sweat glands (like humans) to cool their bodies, they pant. If you feel you MUST bathe a puppy or dog, I would not use anything other than a tiny (TINY!) amount of Johnson's No-More-Tears (or tearless) baby shampoo, and rinse, rinse, rinse. No conditioner - ever, for puppies or adults. The only thing I ever put on my kids' coats is a tiny bit of Avon's Skin So Soft in the summer months when they spend hours during the evening by the pond. We have a small farm next door and there are deer flies and horseflies which bother the dogs; also, the Skin So Soft repels mosquitoes which congregate near the pond. I rub a few drops on my hands and then run my hands over the coats. It also acts as a deterrent to other insects, (fleas, ticks, etc).People (and vets) are SO quick to point to diet as a cause of a bad coat. The first thing I say to anyone who contacts me about a dog/puppy with a bad coat is, "How often are you bathing him, and what are you using?" In my humble opinion, it's the bathing that is destroying the natural oils on a dogs coat and skin....they were not meant to be bathed often, they really aren't. The only exception is if the dog has a medical skin condition that warrants special bathing. A little Dachshund will do just fine with a brushing. Instead of investing in "dog shampoos" or taking them to a groomer - research some really good, soft, boar bristle brushes - and they don't have to be for dogs; you can use a good quality human one. Brushing with that, combined with a good quality kibble and a daily spoonful of Dannon Vanilla yogurt with Mirra-Coat powder will make their coats shine like glass. :-)
2. Does it ever occur to folks that the reason their dogs are so happy and ecstatic when they are picked up from a groomer is NOT because they enjoyed themselves so much, but because they are so happy to see their owners and be taken away from those places? Don't be taken in by marketing gimmicks and phrases calling groomers "luxurious spas" (or whatever). They are groomers, period; and any dog would MUCH prefer being babied, pampered and groomed by his/her beloved owner at home.
For folks who do need to use a professional groomer, always - always - always make SURE that you are going to a licensed groomer, and not just someone who claims that they are a professional groomer. And - I can't stress this highly enough - ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO BARRIER BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR DOG AT ANY TIME. And make sure that you stay with him/her the entire time. Never, never, never take your dog to a groomer who does business behind closed doors and refuses to allow the owner to observe the proceedings every single second. I won't relate all the horror stories I know about groomers choking dogs, handling them roughly, shaving off nipples, having items spill on them from upper shelves, or putting them into cages with dryers and forgetting about them while the poor dogs cooked to death.....yes...that has happened.
If your groomer is legitimate and kind and has nothing to hide - he/she does everything out in the open for all the customers to see - not behind closed doors.
Wanting puppy to become friends with another dog
But what if I WANT my puppy to become friends with another dog?
(This pertains to dogs that are NOT part of the puppy's household.)
Never put a strange dog in the position of HAVING to make friends with your puppy. Holding the dog on a short lead, making him sit or lie down when a puppy "invades" his space is cruel, it prevents him from getting away from the puppy. It doesn't matter if the dog has never hurt another dog, or is usually friendly with other dogs. The point is, don't FORCE the dog into a position where he HAS to put up with the puppy invading his space. And never allow your puppy to force himself on a strange dog - ever.
If you want them to become friends - take them both to NEUTRAL territory, not his house, not your house. Take them to a park or for a walk together. The dog will be LESS likely to try to get away from the puppy. There will be other things that will grab the puppy's attention and he'll be less focused on the dog; and the dog will relax more when around the puppy.
It's wrong to insist that dogs HAVE to become friends.....you wouldn't insist that a child HAVE to be friends with everyone, would you? Dogs are just like humans, some feel comfortable around little ones, some don't. I feel very uncomfortable around babies & toddlers (I find the constant noise very irritating), and highly resent ANYONE trying to push a little baby into my face. I threatened to drop the last baby that was thrust into my arms, and the woman hastily took it back and never did it again....lololol
Give the dog some time and space, if HE wants to be friends with the puppy, he will. But trying to push or hasten the friendship could backfire.
Puppy bonding with a family member
Have the family member interact constantly with the puppy, holding him, stroking him, playing with him, sleeping next to him, giving him food, treats, etc.
Puppies naturally gravitate to the people who laugh, giggle and have happy voices - those draw puppies like magnets. And puppies normally bond to the people they sleep with at night.
To truly bond with a puppy, you must form a deep level of understanding and devotion - and it's a two-way street.
Chewing on furniture
Any hints to keep my baby from chewing on the furniture?
First, try to understand WHY the puppy is chewing. Is it from boredom? Is he teething? When puppies teeth (usually beginning at 4 months) their gums become swollen and tender. To ease the pain of teething you can add ice cubes to your puppy's water, the cold will help numb his tender gums. Or you might soak a washcloth in cold water and freeze it as a soothing antidote to his discomfort. Be sure to monitor him when you give it to him, if he begins to chew pieces off, remove it at once. A rawhide toy rubbed with bacon fat will also comfort him and he'll enjoy this for a long time because the rawhide is edible and the bacon fat is enticing.
Some dogs chew because of frustration, boredom or loneliness. Give your puppy/dog the opportunity to exercise before you leave for work in the morning. To remedy loneliness leave the tv or radio on a low volume to provide soothing voices and musc. The best remedy for loneliness, however, is a companion. There are many unwanted puppies in SPCA's, Humane Societies, Rescues, etc. If you want to pick a companion for your puppy, it really helps to have a puppy who will be about his age and his breed size.
Hint #1 - don't waste your money purchasing any "anti-chew" commercial stuff - they usually don't work. Hint #2 - for tiny new babies who are basically just exploring and nibbling - spray the area with a little spray cologne. We love the smell, but dogs dislike it - and especially dislike tasting it. An added bonus - it makes the house smell nice :-) Hint #3 - for older determined chewers who keep going back to the same place, put a little Tabasco sauce on it; but do NOT do this with tiny little puppies - it will burn them terribly. For determined repeat offenders, try a squirt bottle filled with water, but remember to say "NO!" first, and give the Dachshund a chance to stop, if he doesn't, use the squirt bottle. It's called "aversion training" and it's humane and effective.
Digging holes in the yard
Help! I'd like my Dachshund to stop digging holes in the yard!
And I'd like the summers here in Ohio to be less hot.
Ain't gonna happen - for either of us.
Dachshunds were bred for hunting burrowing animals (ie badgers, rabbits, etc) and they have an instinctive urge to dig; just like a "herding" dog has an instinct to "herd;" a dog bred for "protection" has an instinct to "protect;" etc.
You want a beautifully manicured lawn? - then a Dachshund is not for you. They WILL dig, and we don't really discourage ours from doing so. It seems to release a lot of energy and gives them great satisfaction, and it's not uncommon for our family to have "group digs" and they have a ball digging together. However, when the holes get so large that the little munchkins can disappear into them, we do fill the holes in and discourage them from digging in the same spot again. How do we discourage them from doing that? Easy. Take a pooper scooper and scoop up some poop - and place it on the area you just filled in. If you want to be sneaky, you can cover it with a little dirt. The next time the Dachshund/s begin digging there; it's like "Eewwwwwwww!" and they can't back up fast enough. lololol
And that brings up the subject of dewclaws. We don't like to do "cosmetic" surgery on any of our dogs. We got away from ear cropping on the Danes - and discovered that they have beautiful expressive natural ears, which enhanced their facial features instead of detracting from them. We never removed the Danes' dewclaws either, because we could see that they used those digits as sort of "thumbs" to help grip.
With Dachshunds, dewclaws can be very problematic if left on. Because they are natural burrowers (whether in dirt or carpeting) their dewclaws can frequently get caught and torn - and bleed like crazy, besides being very painful. And keeping the dewclaws clipped short on these tiny paws is time consuming and often difficult.
Removing dewclaws when the babies are born is only a momentary and minor discomfort, quickly forgotten in seconds. After the puppy is over a few days old, the nerves and muscles are more developed - and it's much more painful for the puppies. Any older, and it has to be done under anesthesia by a vet.
It's extremely easy to remove dewclaws - extremely easy; and there is really no excuse for a breeder NOT to remove them. If you've never had a Dachshund with a torn dewclaw - count yourself lucky. It's very painful for them and we only had to experience it once before we began removing all dewclaws.
Do Dachshunds have a sense of humor?
Absolutely! Ask ANY Dachshund owner and they will regale you with tales filled with humor and mischief. For instance, the other day I went into a bedroom and found one of my shoes stuffed with pee pads....used pee pads; and not a puppy in sight.
And I'm not accusing ANY of the little baby munchkins currently running around the house - but SOMEONE backed up and did a doody in my bedroom slipper knowing full well that, 1) I'm blind as a bat without my glasses, and 2) I always put my slippers on before my glasses.
The Golden Rule of Genetics
The Golden Rule of Genetics:
Your eyes will tell you what the dog appears to be.
His pedigree will tell you what he ought to be.
His offspring will tell you what HE IS.
Are Dapples and Piebalds rare?
Dapples and piebalds are not as common as the solid colors, but they are by no means rare - or new; they have been around for a long time; dapples since from at least 1880's and piebalds probably from the 1870's (or even earlier).
Are blue-eyed Dachshunds rare?
Blue eyes are common when dappling or double dappling falls on the eye area. They are not rare.
Are 'Double Dapple' Dachshunds rare?
Double dapples are Dachshunds that inherit a dapple gene from each parent. They are not "rare." They are not as frequently seen because most breeders refrain from breeding dapple to dapple. Unfortunately, many double dapples are born with hearing and/or sight problems (which can range from slightly deaf and/or slightly sight impaired to totally deaf and completely blind); and most breeders prefer not to have to deal with a handicapped puppy - not wanting to keep him, sell him or euthanize him.
Dachshunds with hearing and/or sight impairment
Suppose my Dachshund has a hearing or sight impairment? What do I do?
Dogs with hearing and/or sight impairments can be lived with very easily if the correct environment is provided. For instance, hand signals may be used for hearing impaired dogs; and touch signals may be used for sight impaired dogs. Hearing and/or sight impaired dogs learn a tremendous amount from other non-impaired dogs in the family - taking their cues from them. Caution must be used to make sure fencing is secure and the Dachshunds (who love to dig) cannot tunnel beneath and escape. Wandering from home they will quickly become lost and disoriented, and cannot hear (or see) vehicles. Caution must be used when they are asleep - to never startle them awake (and this particularly pertains to children/toddlers); because they can wake up startled and disoriented and react defensively. There are many websites and webrings about hearing and/or sight impaired dogs which have a lot of great information.
What is a Silver Dapple?
Technically, there is no such thing as a "silver dapple" or "black and silver." Those dogs are actually "black and tan dapples." When the dappling falls onto the color black, it turns the black to a grey or "silver" color. Apparently these dogs were once called "silver dapples", but genetically they are (and the proper terminology for them is) "black and tan dapples."
Can a Dapple gene be carried?
Can a Dachshund carry (but not show) a dapple gene?
Dapple is a dominant gene - it cannot be "split for" or "carried." Either the Dachshund IS a dapple, or it is not - it cannot "carry" dapple.
Can non-Dapples produce Dapples?
But I had 2 Dachshunds which were not dapples and they produced a dapple puppy, how could that happen?
Dappling on the base color red sometimes fades with age; and oftentimes the only indication that a red or cream puppy is a dapple might be a little dappling on an ear. If the dappling fades, the Dachshund will look solid red or cream - but he is still genetically a dapple; he will have the dapple gene to pass on. And because dapple is a dominant gene, only one parent has to be a dapple in order for a puppy to be a dapple.
Can 'Double Dapples' just 'pop up'?
I've heard breeders say that they do not breed dapple to dapple, but that occasionally a double dapple puppy will just "pop up." Can that happen?
No. The only way you can get a double dapple puppy is from a dapple to dapple breeding. Dappling can fade on red and cream puppies as they grow, so one parent (or both) might not look like a dapple; but you can tell that the Dachshund is, in fact, a dapple if he/she: 1) is bred to a non-dapple and produces dapples, or 2) is bred to a dapple and produce double dapples.
Can a Dachshund pass on a 'Double Dapple' gene?
There is no such thing as a "double dapple gene." There is a "dapple gene" - period. When two dapples are bred together, there is the possibility that they might produce "double dapples"- puppies that inherited a dapple gene from each parent. But there is no "double dapple gene" to be passed on. A double dapple can only pass on one dapple gene - period.
What is a Triple Dapple?
There is no such thing as a "triple dapple," there are dapples (which inherited a dapple gene from one parent) and double dapples (which inherited a dapple gene from both parents).
What is a Blue Merle Dapple?
There is no such thing as a "Blue Merle Dapple." Those Dachshunds are simply"Black & Tan Dapples" and they are not rare at all. (Examples are Magic, Lilli, Harvey & Juice in the Past Puppies page.)
Only Dapple gene can cause sight or hearing problems?
Is it true that only the dapple gene can cause sight or hearing problems?
Any gene that produces white on a dog (particularly white on the eye or ear area) has the potential for causing sight or hearing problems, be it in Dalmatians, Dogo Argentinos, Bulldogs, Great Danes, Foxhounds, Old English Sheepdogs, Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs, Bull Terriers, Samoyeds, Greyhounds, Great Pyrenees, Sealyham terriers, English Setters, any breed that has piebald (including Dachshunds), etc. And "pigment associated deafness" is not restricted to dogs - it also affects mice, mink, pigs, cattle, horses, cats and humans. Not all dogs having white on their heads will have problems; but it is the duty of a responsible breeder to understand the genetics, and to understand the relationship of pigment with sight & hearing, and to deal responsibly with breeding any animal which might result in impaired offspring.
Dapple to Dapple breeding
Is it true that some breeders (or lines of Dachshunds) can breed dapple to dapple and never have a problem with sight or hearing-impaired double dapple offspring?
It is impossible to predict, determine or control where dappling will fall on a Dachshund's body. Since breeders cannot control where dappling occur - they cannot control the potential sight or hearing problems the double dappling might cause. Any dapple to dapple breeding has the potential for producing impaired offspring.
Double Dapples and deformities
Double dapples often have problems other than sight or hearing, don't they? Like deformities such as puppies born with intestines or brain outside the body, lack of anus, etc.?
Gastroschisis (a birth defect in which a baby is born with some or all of the intestines on the outside of the abdomen due to an abnormal opening), or a puppy born with the brain exposed, or incomplete digestive system (ie lack of anus) happens in all animals of any color - dogs, cats, mice and humans. These are not caused by the dapple gene. Unfortunately it seems that some folks see a dapple with any defect and blame the defect on the dapple gene. That's like saying, "Oh, that person is a blonde and has skin cancer - therefore the skin cancer happened because she is blonde." Double dapples and other patterns that create white on the head might have sight and/or hearing problems...but don't make the gigantic erroneous leap that any other problem they have is caused by the dapple gene or because of the color white.
Coat colors & patterns determined by genes
Is it true that any coat color can be solid or patterned and appear on any puppy?
Puppies will only be solid or patterned as determined by the genes they inherit from their parents; ie you can't get a dappled puppy from two non-dapple parents, you can't get a non-piebald puppy from two piebald parents, you can't get a dominant color puppy from two dilute parents, etc.
Can a dog be 3/4 cream (or anything else)?
Can a dog/puppy be 3/4 cream (or piebald, or anything else)?
A dog cannot be 3/4 (75%) anything. Each dog inherits two alleles (genes), one from each parent. For example, if a dog inherits 2 recessive piebald genes it is a piebald (100%). If a dog inherits 1 recessive piebald gene it is "split for" piebald (50%) - he carries the piebald gene but does not show it. If a dog inherits no recessive piebald gene (0%), he is not a piebald and is not split for piebald (and he cannot pass the gene on). The above example applies to any gene carried recessively.
Having a litter before spaying
Won't a female make a better pet if she is allowed to have a litter before she is spayed?
No. Matter of fact, motherhood may make a friendly dog nervous and snappy trying to protect her puppies.
'Miniature' and 'Standard' Dachshund puppies
What is the difference between a "miniature Dachshund puppy" and a "standard Dachshund puppy?"
Technically, there is really no such thing as a"miniature Dachshund puppy" or a "standard Dachshund puppy." (As per AKC regulations) a Dachshund is only a "miniature" if he/she weighs 11 lbs or under at one year of age. Although a breeder might guess that a puppy would fall in between the weights of the parents, occasionally a puppy can be larger or smaller than either parent.
What is a 'tweeny'?
A "tweeny" (a term made up by breeders - not an AKC term) describes Dachshunds that weigh between 11 - 16 lbs at one year of age. A one-year-old Dachshund which weighs over 11 lbs is technically a "standard", though the AKC states that "standards" are "usually 16 - 32 lbs."
Showing dogs & championships
Don't responsible breeders always show their dogs?
Just because a dog is shown does not make him "good." Likewise, just because a dog is not shown does not make him "bad." Also, be very careful in examining the "championship" of a dog. Did you know that many Dachshunds are currently advertised as "International Champions" when in fact - they have never been out of the state, let alone country - and might have been exhibited in only one small local show in their entire lifetime? There is an organization called "The International All Breed Canine Association" which has no affiliation with the AKC, and which hosts small local dog shows, and offers the winner a title called "IABCA champion" (aka International All Breed Canine Association champion). However, unscrupulous breeders leave out the complete title, using only the first word "International" and the last word "champion" misleading people into thinking that their dogs are really international champions. (!)
The IABCA is only one of a number of "alternative canine registries" (many of which were set up for puppy millers and unscrupulous breeders) and if you are considering purchasing a puppy, I highly recommend researching them. AKC & CKC are the two registries to look for when purchasing a registered Dachshund.
Breed clubs and breed organizations
Don't responsible breeders always belong to dog breed clubs or breed organizations?
When many members of an organization (or club) share opinions (even false ones), there is a great deal of pressure towards conformity and people are not as open to actually learning or researching. Also the "status" that certain members hold outside the group influence how other members interact with each other and influence their judgments. Judging whether a breeder is good or not just by looking at what organizations he belongs to is pretty ridiculous - a person sends in membership fee and becomes a member - how on earth does that make the person more knowledgeable or reputable? There are many good ways to judge a breeder, but looking at the status symbols of club memberships is not one of them.
Puppies handled by children
Don't Dachshund puppies have to be handled by children from a very young age in order to become "child friendly?"
Unfortunately, many people (breeders and buyers alike) treat puppies as toys for their children/grandchildren, and do not instruct them on how to properly handle puppies. I have seen puppies so traumatized from improper handling by children that they are scared to be picked up and reluctant to be handled; and it takes a lot of time, reassurance and retraining to get them to trust people again. Many (if not most) Dachshunds that end up in rescues or shelters are because of being physically mishandled and/or emotionally traumatized by children. Also, improper handling can injure a puppy's spine causing weakness which might contribute to spinal paralysis later in life. Puppies traumatized at a young age by children can become fearful and defensive around children, a trait that can be carried through into adulthood. Proper handling of baby puppies is essential to their emotional well-being; and puppies who have been gently and properly handled interact happily with everyone - adults and children.
Length of time a breeder has been in Dachshunds
The longer a person has been breeding Dachshunds, the better breeder they are, right?
Hopefully yes, realistically...well perhaps not. Just because a person has been breeding for "over 20 years" (or however long), it does not automatically make that person more knowledgeable or ethical. I've known puppy millers who have been breeding for over 20 years, and it sure as heck didn't make them more knowledgeable or ethical. It's not the amount of time a person has been doing something that make him good; it's how much he is willing to research and learn, how much he is willing to put his heart and soul into something - that make him good.
Inbreeding and linebreeding
Inbreeding and linebreeding are bad, aren't they?
It is a common misconception to think that inbreeding produces degenerate offspring. This misconception exists because sometimes inbreeding produces puppies which concentrate the weaknesses and the faults of the two parents. By the same token, inbreeding can (with knowledge) concentrate the strengths and positive characteristics of the two parents. What inbreeding is NOT going to do is create "new faults" (more toes, less toes, two heads, pink Dachshunds with purple polkadots, etc.). Inbreeding only concentrates the traits that are already in the parents.
Take a look at the history of the American Hairless Terrier. The first hairless mutation (a female hairless pup) was bred to her son and produced a male and female hairless and two coated females. The male hairless of that litter was bred to all his littermates. Talk about inbreeding! Most of the info on the net glosses over the relationships of the breeding dogs used to create the American Hairless Terrier, but no question, they were inbreeding - and heavily. I've got nothing against American Hairless Terriers, those inbreedings created a whole new breed (and a wonderful one). I just mention it to show that all inbreedings don't result in tragedy.
If you look at the history of the Great Danes, you will see close linebreeding and often inbreeding from the "first modern dane" Nero I, (born in 1876 and owned by Ed Messter) to the influential Hansa line (who were never outcrossed) to the Saalburg line and even to the more modern Rosemarie Roberts' Dinro line. These lines produced Great Danes of such quality (including typey structure that was consistently passed onto their offspring) that have never been surpassed to this day.
Technically speaking, inbreeding is breeding close relatives together - father and daughter, mother and son, littermates to each other. Linebreeding is breeding relatives like aunt to nephew, uncle to niece, cousins to each other, etc.
A breeder not only has to look at the genotype (genes), but at the phenotype (appearance). Will a breeding be complementary? Are the pluses and minuses (of structure, movement, personality, etc.) taken into consideration, and will they compliment the mate and hopefully pass on the best traits to the offspring?
A lot of considerations should be taken when breeding; but blanket statements like "all linebreeding or all inbreeding are bad" are grossly incorrect.
Bloodlines
Champion bloodlines or (popular) bloodlines are important, aren't they?
"Blood lines" is an old and outdated term which misleads people. It went out with the myths of "Telegony" (the theory that the sire of one litter can influence the progeny of future litters coming from the same female) and "Saturated with a Bloodline" (the notion that falsely presumes that a female if bred to the same sire several times becomes "saturated" with his "blood line," so much so that her puppies will be only of his type, even when mated to another male).
Puppies will only have the genetic makeup of their parents - not the genetic makeup from any long dead ancestor or from any specific champion in their pedigree. For example, have you ever heard a person say, "I am proud that the blood of Thomas Jefferson runs in my veins." Think about that, a remarkable feat, nothing short of a miracle because it would require a transfusion from a corpse longtime dead. That person has the genetic makeup of his parents - not his ancestor Thomas Jefferson.
Too much emphasis is placed on pedigrees and ancestors, and not enough on the parents of the puppies. It's a common marketing gimmick by breeders, which attempts to make the buyer assume that the puppy will be just like that ancestor champion, or some other dog in the pedigree.
"An inch of dog is better than a mile of pedigree."
Does your dog need to see the vet?
(This pertains to non-routine visits)
Only a healthy pet is a happy companion. To assure your pet's daily well-being requires regular care and close attention to any hint of ill health. Watch your pet's behavior and be aware of changes. Groom and stroke your pet regularly, feeling with your hand for any changes. Note any signs of discomfort or any unusual odors.
Any of the following are warning signs. Call your veterinarian and describe the situation:
- Abnormal or hard-to-explain change in behavior, or sudden viciousness.
- Abnormal breathing, increased or decreased from normal, or labored breathing.
- Paralysis, cannot move body or one or more limbs.
- Convulsions (seizures, also called fits).
- Muscle tremors, shivering or muscle quivers.
- Gums, white or bluish appearance.
- Dehydration - loss of elasticity of skin (if tented up over the back, does not spring back at once).
- Fever - 104 degrees or more.
- Signs of pain.
- Difficulty eating or swallowing.
- Loss of appetite or lethary which persists more than 24 hours.
- Diarrhea or vomiting which persists more than 24 hours, or foul smelling or bloody diarrhea.
- Persistent cough.
- Difficult, abnormal, or uncontrolled waste elimination.
- Drinking excessive amounts of water.
- Frequent urination (note though, that very young puppies urinate frequently. If you think the puppy's urination habits are more frequent than normal, then call the vet.)
- Urination accidents by a housetrained dog.
- Difficulty getting up or down.
- Limping or a change in walking or running.
- Any unusual lumps.
- Pawing at ears, head shaking.
- Any abnormal discharges from the eyes, nose or other body openings.
- Abnormal weight loss or gain.
- Abnormal teeth or gums.
- Foul breath or excessive tartar deposits on teeth.
- Sores that do not heal.
- Offensive odor.
- Scratching, licking or biting any part of the body.
- Hair loss (more than normal shedding).
- Ragged or dull coat.
- Dandruff.
- Scooting the rear end along ground (usually anal glands, not a sign of worms)
Never be afraid to contact the breeder of the puppy, particularly for those symptoms closer to the bottom of the list; the breeder might be able to assist without the puppy being taken to the vet. But for the symptoms higher in the list, those can signify medical emergencies - do not wait to hear back from a breeder, get the puppy/dog to the vet immediately.
Vets are occasionally delayed by emergency cases. However, the next emergency may involve your pet, and that priority will be reciprocated. To facilitate your visit to the vet:
- Allow yourself sufficient time in the event of an unexpected wait.
- Be ready to give the necessary information required for a proper diagnosis
- Explain clearly what you want done. Don't hesitate to ask questions.
Simplifying a visit to a vet
Tired of repeating the same information to the Vet Tech and then to the Veterinarian? Afraid that you might forget something important that you meant to tell the Vet? Afraid that the Vet Tech will not write down all the information you give correctly?
Make it a point to bring with you a detailed but concise description of the problem on a sheet of paper which will include:
1. Name of Dog
2. Birthdate
3. Sex (and if spayed or neutered)
4. Breed
5. Dates of Vaccinations and wormings received.
6. List of any medications the dog is currently on or has previously taken (and for what problem)
7. List of food and supplements that the dog is being fed, and how long the dog has been on that diet.
8. Description of the problem and the date it started.
9. Description of the dog's symptoms.
10. Details of symptoms that the dog does NOT have (ie tell them if the following is normal):
Appetite is normal
Not drinking excessively
Output (urination & stools) are normal
No vomiting
No coughing
Not lethargic, is active as normal
11. Detail any treatment that you have tried (ie Kaopectate, ointment, etc)
12. Then state any info that you might consider pertinent (ie if any other dogs are exhibiting the same symptoms, or what you suspect might be the cause, etc.)
Be detailed, but concise and keep it on one sheet of paper - your vet doesn't have time to read a book. Good vets will appreciate it because it will contain most of the info they need to know and they can forego the time-consuming procedure of getting the details - and get right to the pertinent points to correctly diagnose the problem.
When you get into the exam room and the Vet Tech begins their questions, just hand them the sheet of paper and keep saying, "It's all on that sheet of paper." Make sure they attach the paper to your dog's folder, so the vet will read it when he comes in.
This way you will be SURE that the vet has all the important details.
Locating a Missing Pet
Pets can travel a great distance very fast - either on their own or with human intervention. Therefore, owners of missing pets should initially extend their search to at least a 50-mile radius. Pet owners should persist in efforts to locate their companion animals, including the following:
1. Call and repeatedly visit all area animal shelters and impoundment facilities and animal welfare organizations within at least a 50-mile radius. Personal visits are recommended since shelters handle thousands of pets and may very easily fail to recognize a stray from the description reported. Leave a picture of your pet with them with your number and address. It is not unheard of for an animal to show up in an animal shelter as much as a year later, but shelter personnel do not keep checking lost reports that long unless the owner continues to follow up.
2. Use the internet. There are many sites devoted to lost animals, and there are lots of internet sites which have a "lost animal" section - Craig's List, etc.
3. Continuously check "Found Pet" ads in local newspapers.
4. Call local veterinarians; someone may have taken your animal there if he is sick or hurt. An animal welfare organization that doesn't have a shelter may house animals there if no foster homes or boarding kennels are available. Or, if a stranger has found and kept your pet, they may take him/her in for a vet examination. Give them a picture of your pet with your name, phone number and address on it.
5. Call boarding kennels; some animal welfare organizations house strays in boarding kennels if they have no shelter or available foster homes. Give them a picture of your pet with your name, phone number and address on it.
6. Call local groomers; some animal welfare organizations or person who found and kept your pet may take him to a groomer for bathing, dipping, nail-clipping, grooming. Give them a picture of your pet with your name, phone number and address on it.
7. Call local dog day care; if a person found your pet and kept him, he may be leaving him at the local dog day care. Ask the owner to post the picture (with your name, phone number and address on it), so other owners can see it. Perhaps they know a person who recently found a pet.
8. Place flyers in all feed stores, dog supply stores.
9. If a lost pet is a purebred dog or even resembles a bit of a purebred dog, contact breed-specific rescues, breed clubs and kennel clubs.
10. Search: walk and drive through the neighborhood looking for and calling your pet. Talk to neighbors and anyone who might have been working in the area, such as a mail carrier, newspaper carrier, lawn care professionals, street crews, garbage disposal people. Give them all a flyer. Check parks, schools and other homes - any place the pet may have gone for food or shelter. If your pet is frightened or injured, he may be hiding. Check under cars and in small hideaways.
11. Advertise: Post flyers in as many places as possible and place ads in local newspaper, providing a picture and general description of your pet, the area where lost, and your phone number. List reward, but don't list how much. Some radio and television stations will broadcast lost pet bulletins, and schools will sometimes make announcements over the public address system.
12. Offer a reward and be sure to notify neighborhood children, given them flyers. It is helpful to offer a lesser reward for notification/identification of the pet if found dead....it's better to know.
13. Contact animal control, law enforcement agencies, and/or highway officials to check on dead animal removal and reported sightings of strays. (The rewards will get their attention.)
14. If your pet was tattooed or microchipped, notify the organization with which you registered your pet.
15. Ask for the USDA Animal Welfare list of licensed dealers and registered research facilities. You should mail your flyers to the facilities purchasing animals in your area. Request that your flyer or postcard be distributed to the agents who inspect dealers and laboratories receiving dogs and cats from your area.
16. Contact Rescue Leagues - many of them assist in locating and repossessing stolen animals.
17. You might want to consider using a Lost Dog Tracking Team.
Unfortunately there are con people who check the classified ads for lost dogs and then contact the owners, verifying the owners' description of the dog and the location where the dog was lost. They might claim that the dog was picked up by a truck driver and brought to another city and that they will ship the dog back if the owners can wire money to cover the costs. Of course, after the money is sent, the owners are never reunited with their dogs.
Don't offer additional information concerning the description and circumstances of your lost dog to anyone who may contact you. Ask them to describe the dog and where it was found. And don't send money without guarantees of getting your dog back.
Keep track of who you contacted, and if you are lucky enough to find your pet, have the courtesy to contact them, thank them for their assistance and tell them that you have found your pet.