Waggin' Tails Miniature Dachshunds

FAQ Doxies & Dogs

Please note: I am constantly adding topics to this page as I receive questions from people. For first-time visitors, please read the entire page; then, when you return you can just look at the "Calendar" and see if (and when) a new topic has been added. 

Why do dogs have such a claim on our affections? Why do they have the power to cheer or depress us and why does their neglect fill us with such repugnance?

There is more to it than the fact that they dispense friendliness and love freely and without question. The main reason is their utter dependence. They rely on us completely. In our hands lies the capacity to make their lives happy or miserable, and only the dedicated owner knows the boundless satisfaction which comes from conferring pleasure and contentment on his pet, whether pedigree or mongrel.

But caring is not enough. It must be combined with knowledge.

Dogs as Family Members

Commonly Seen Pamphlets on Raising Puppies

Dachshunds and Other Pets

Choosing a breeder

Criteria for a Good Breeder

Problem with Club or "Rescue Group" Guidelines

Watch out for Scammers

What is the best food for a Dachshund puppy?

Is Chicken & Rice a good diet?

BARF (or raw) diets are the best for dogs, aren't they?

Is Cottage Cheese good for my puppy or dog?

Okay, then what IS the best diet for my dog?

Commercial Kibble

What is the proper way to lift a Dachshund?

What is the best way to clean my Dachshund's ears?

What Can I Use for Crusty Ear Tips?

What Can I Use for Tear Stains?

Dachshunds and exercise?

Should Dachshunds wear collars?

Hiccups and worms?

Scooting his rear end?

Puppies have worms, mother is worm-free?

If I feed my dog garlic, he won't get worms?

Parvo and vaccinations

Tracheo-Bronchitis and vaccinations

'Series' of vaccinations?

Vaccinations - when and how often?

The quality of all vaccines are alike, yes?

How do I choose a veterinarian?

Do dogs need pain medication for surgeries, etc?

Are products made in China safe?

'Made in America' and 'Veterinarian Approved' means safe?

'Natural' 'Holistic' 'Green' 'Healthy' ''Organic, means safe?

Are Snuggle Puppies safe?

Is it okay for my dog/s to discipline the puppy?

What is the best way to discipline a puppy?

What is the best way to hand out treats?

Introducing new puppy to family dog/s

Putting puppy down around strange dogs

Group Playtime with strange dogs is DANGEROUS

Groomers - Don't be taken in - or closed out

Wanting puppy to become friends with another dog

Puppy bonding with a family member

Chewing on furniture

Digging holes in the yard

Dachshunds and Dewclaws

Dachshunds and Their Trophies

Special Spots on Dogs

Do Dachshunds have a sense of humor?

Backyard Breeders & Puppy Millers

Having a litter before spaying

'Miniature' and 'Standard' Dachshund puppies

What is a 'tweeny'?

Showing dogs & championships

Breed clubs and breed organizations

Puppies handled by children

My child/children belongs to 4-H

My relative is a veterinarian

Length of time a breeder has been in Dachshunds

Does your dog need to see the vet?

Simplifying a visit to a vet

Locating a Missing Pet

I can't count the number of times I've heard people say "Our dogs are members of our family" and then gone on to hear about their dogs being kept in a crate; or tied outside to a line or tree; or kept in a kennel or barn; or wearing a shock collar in a yard with an invisible/underground fence;  or taken to a kennel/day care which was not researched, or being given to a vet to do carte blanche with - unquestioningly.

Hmmmmm....tell me, which OTHER members of your family do you treat like that?

Which of your children/grandchildren are kept in a crate? Or tied outside? Or kept in a kennel or barn? Or wear a shock collar? Or taken to a daycare that you have not interviewed and investigated fully? You wouldn't allow a pediatrician to take your child/grandchild and do whatever he wanted with, accepting absolutely everything he says without question.....why would you a vet? (Just as parents should have rudimentary knowledge about childhood illnesses, nutrition, medications, vaccinations, etc. so should puppy owners have the same about puppy illnesses, nutrition, medications, vaccinations, and so on.) 

Just because folks CALL their dogs "family members," it doesn't necessarily mean that they TREAT them like family members.

Dogs are highly intelligent. Dogs feel as much discomfort and physical pain as humans, though their evolutionary development has patterned them to hide it as best they can. Dogs feel emotions just like humans.

This website was created by my husband and myself with lots of superb contributions from our puppy owners for folks who actually TREAT their dogs like family members. If you don't, then please do NOT apply for a puppy.

A frequent complaint emailed to me from rejected applicants:

"The problem with YOU is - you consider/treat puppies as children!"

and my invariable response being:

"And the problem with YOU is - you don't."

If you TRULY consider and TREAT your dog as a beloved member of your family - welcome!  We are pleased that you stopped by and hope that the information on these pages might be helpful to you.

I was absolutely sick to my stomach when Limmy's Mom told me that her local library had pamphlets on how to raise a puppy - you would not BELIEVE what was in them. "For the entire first week, keep the puppy in a cage and away from the family, only letting him out to go potty."  "For the second week, bring the puppy to his bed but do not let him get off it except to go potty." !!!!!!  I'd like to see those people use that strategy on a human kid - they'd end up with the same thing - a severely distraught (and perhaps permanently emotionally damaged) baby - if not a psychopath.

Why would anyone consider that technique? Easy - pure laziness. They don't have to spend time housetraining. They don't have to spend time puppy-proofing.  They don't have to spend time watching the puppy to make sure he doesn't get into trouble. Simple - just stick the puppy in a cage - out of sight, out of mind.

Anyone who does that to a baby puppy is not that much different than the horrid Ohio Amish who keep barns full of dogs/puppies confined in cages, getting rid of many in their despicable "dog auctions."

Passionate?  Darned right I'm passionate, and any dog owner who isn't - shouldn't have a dog.

Dachshunds are hunting dogs, that's what they were bred for. Standards were used to hunt badgers, miniatures were used to hunt rabbits. They have a hunting instinct which cannot be "trained out" of them. I always ask puppy applicants if they have any other pets besides dogs.

Although we have rescue cats, they are kept separated from our Dachshunds (they have the run of the basement, upstairs laundry room, attached garage and huge outdoor pen. We are allergic to cats, but didn't have much of a choice in having them (see The Story of Kali). Since the cats are in another part of the house, our puppies are not raised with cats. The puppies who have been placed in homes with family cats have done very well, the worse case scenario seemed to be when one of our little puppies was pestering a family cat to play with him, by barking constantly at her - until she had enough, and cuffed him upside the head. There was absolutely no damage done, but the puppy's feelings were hurt so badly that he sat down and howled his little heart out.

I do have a concern with folks who have pets other than cats & dogs, and who feel that the Dachshund will "play nicely" with the other pet (mouse, rat, rabbit, bird, hamster, hedgehog, gerbil, ferret, guinea pig, etc.)  They might have heard of a Dachshund who was friends with such an animal (even nursing it); but, on the whole, sooner or later, the Dachshund's hunting instinct will probably kick in - with disastrous results.  IF you have a type of pet mentioned above, do NOT let it out to "play" with the Dachshund. And just because the Dachshund plays nice once or twice (or even years) with it - that does NOT mean that tragedy cannot happen.

We have a rescue Beagle, which is also a hunting dog. There is a BIG difference in the way our Beagle acts with small rodents & birds than our Dachshunds.  Our Beagle might stalk, chase and corner a small animal or bird, and bark her head off, but she does not touch it. Most of our adult Dachshunds would dash in and dispatch it with a quick shake. Unfortunately, I've seen the results in the yard, usually in Spring and early Summer, and often not confined to rodents or birds...but toads, snakes, turtles, etc. 

I remember seeing one of our Dachshunds rolling up her sleeves and preparing to duke it out with a small (about the size of my hand) snapping turtle (!) Dachshunds don't back down. (Luckily the snapping turtle was on the other side of our chain link fence, trying to get across the yard for some reason, but he was pressed up against the fence and took a tiny chunk out of Rocky's nose. This absolutely enraged her, and she was determined to do battle. (After confining her to the house, I scooped the turtle up into a bucket with a shovel and drove to a public pond where I let him go.) [This was not the monster snapping turtle which I describe on the Puppy Proofing page.]

Dachshunds are darling little dogs, we love them more than any other breed; but please realize they ARE hunting dogs.  Keep your other little pets safe. Keep their cages in closed rooms; and do not let the Dachshund near the pet - especially when the pet is out of it's cage.

Mothers-to-be buy every book they can on baby welfare, but millions of people buy puppies with very little knowledge of them.

 

When you purchase a puppy, you are not only purchasing a puppy, but that breeder's knowledge and experience - which should be available to you for the lifetime of your new puppy. Breeders should give you an understanding of the health of your puppy, describe the type and schedule of wormings & vaccinations and also nutrition; plus other important things for you to know.

 

I realize that every breeder has his/her own way of doing things, but when a breeder suggests a certain way of doing something, or using a certain product (vaccine, wormer, food, behavior modification, etc.) - always ask "why?"

 

A good breeder will be able to explain how the product/method works, and why he prefers it rather than another product/method; and not just say, "That's the way it should be done," "I've always done it that way," or "(such-and such breeder/kennel club/vet, etc) told me to do it that way."

 

A good breeder will want to be involved in the puppy's life; to make sure that the combination of the parents' genes are producing happy and healthy adult dogs - not just cute and cuddly little puppies.

Does the breeder keep his dogs  - ALL the dogs,  not just expectant mothers and puppies - in a home versus a kennel? (There are exceptions, though, and I know of 2 excellent breeders who have kennels. However I've never come across any other breeder with kennels who came close to the love and care that these two have for their dogs.)

--- Be aware that there are MANY breeders who claim that they do not have kennels, that all their dogs are “kept in the house.” However – MANY of those breeders keep their dogs caged up in crates inside the house!  So, be sure to ask not only if a breeder’s dogs are kept in the house – but IF they are kept caged/crated within the house.

Does the breeder have an INTIMATE knowledge of both parents  - puppyhood, upbringing, care, nutrition, medical information, physical and emotional development, personality?  (If the breeder purchases adult dogs to breed, or breeds his females to outside stud dogs - the answer is probably "NO")

Does the breeder have an INTIMATE knowledge of every puppy for sale on their website, detailed information about the parents, pregnancy, whelping, nursing, upbringing, care, etc? (If the breeder sells/advertise puppies for other breeders - the answer is probably "NO")

Does the breeder keep his adult dogs after he is through breeding them?  (If not - how on earth does that make him any better than backyard breeders or puppy millers who only look upon dogs solely as money-makers and gets rid of them when they are through breeding them? And how on earth can the breeder require buyers to provide "forever homes" when he doesn't practice that belief himself?)

Does the breeder refrain from breeding 2 breeds together to create "designer puppies"?

Does the breeder breed only 1 or 2 breeds of dogs?

Does the breeder have an IN DEPTH knowledge of dog anatomy, health, illnesses, medications?

Does the breeder have an IN DEPTH knowledge of vaccines & viruses, life cycle of worms, wormers, immunity?

Does the breeder have an IN DEPTH knowledge of genetics?

Does the breeder carefully screen applicants? (versus just handing over a puppy to anyone who wants one?)

Does the breeder want to stay in contact with a puppy owner for the lifetime of the puppy?

Does the breeder intend to respond to requests for assistance from the puppy's owner - for the lifetime of the puppy?

I tend to have a BIG problem with the guidelines that the Clubs & Rescue Groups set for new owners in choosing a puppy, definition of a "good breeder", etc.

"Make sure you visit the baby puppies before you decide on one."
 
Many good breeders do NOT want Parvo tracked onto their property, in their homes or in their kennels. Parvo is a breeder's worst nightmare, the mortality rate is high, the puppies suffer terribly and once it's on your property - it stays there for months and months. Parvo can be brought in on people's shoes and on their car tires. And guess what type of people are the most likely to bring it onto a breeder's property?  People who have been "puppy shopping" and visiting puppy mills, backyard breeders, pet shops, etc. Understand WHY a breeder might not want you visiting until AFTER the puppies have had their first vaccination. That breeder is exhibiting concern for his puppies rather than a quick sale, or wanting you over so he can do a "sales pitch."
 
"Make sure the parents of the puppy are healthy, happy, excited to meet new people and don't shy away from visitors."
 
I'll give you the happy & healthy, but puh-leeze "don't shy away from visitors" ?  For the mothers, especially those with their first litters, that's an awful lot to ask. These "visitors" are handling their precious babies! The mothers have NO idea who these strangers are and are naturally going to be protective of their babies. Intact males might smell other dogs on the people's clothing, especially if the people have been visiting other breeders. I don't expect my adult dogs to fawn over visitors. Some of my dogs like strangers, some don't - and it's their choice. My dogs are appropriate with the vets and very loving & obedient with us; I could care less if they are friendly to strangers. Our puppies LOVE visitors and crawl all over them.
 
"Make sure that the breeder will take back the dog at any time during the dog's life, and for any reason."

Breeders who have large kennels and plenty of room might be able to do that, but for a breeder who has no kennel and keeps all his dogs in the house - that can be a problem. To re-introduce a strange adult dog into an established pack can be disastrous. A breeder SHOULD be involved and responsible - but so should the owner. I've had some folks actually say "Oh good, you take your dogs back. That's good to know in case I don't want it any longer." !!! (and, needless to say, they DIDN'T get a puppy).  A breeder should aim for lifetime-commitment homes, however, in the case of true emergency (through no fault of the new owner who has demonstrated that he tried every way he could to keep the dog), the breeder SHOULD assist in helping to find a new owner.

"Make sure that the breeder does not advertise their puppies in the newspapers or on the internet."

Yup - I actually saw that on some website giving advice on how to research a good breeder. Instead of fixating HOW the puppies are advertised, how about concentrating on HOW the puppies are placed?  Who cares how they are advertised as long as applicants are carefully screened and meet stringent criteria? This same website claimed that anyone who advertises on the net or in a newspaper "obviously has something wrong with their puppies." A statement that is so ludicrous, it doesn't even need to be remarked on.
 
"Make sure that the puppies have been socialized with children."

Nope - explained why further down on this page.
 
"Make sure the breeder has no more than [insert number here] litters/puppies per year."
 
Any breeder who breeds only for a set number of litters per year, is more interested in quantity than quality. Some breeders have a lot of breeding dogs, some breeders have only 1 or 2 breeding dogs.....how can you generalize the NUMBER of litters (or puppies) that should be had per year?  It's the quality, not the quantity that are important. Going by the above guideline of a "set number of litters per year"- a breeder with 4 females could have 4 litters a year - and so could a breeder with only 2 females (by breeding them both every season). According to that guideline, BOTH breeders would be equally good. (!)

"Make sure you purchase from a breeder who shows."

Nope - explained further down on this page.

 "Make sure the breeder is active in local, state and national clubs."
 
As explained further down on this page, assessing a breeder by the "clubs" he/she belongs to is ludicrous. 
 
Some of the WORST breeders I've ever come across belonged to every club in existence. And the owner of one of my little puppies actually went to the Ohio Dachshund Club for a breeder reference (before coming across my website). They referred her to the Dachshund Club of America who pointed her to a well-known breeder who was heavy into showing. That breeder demanded a $250 deposit for a puppy that was not even conceived yet. A YEAR later, the poor lady was out $250 with no puppy (and none in future sight) and the breeder refused to return phone calls or emails. That's a "good breeder"  ????
 
 
"Purchase from breeders who breed to improve the breed standard."
 
"Improving the breed standard" is a very quaint and pat statement made by a lot of egotistical breeders who actually have no knowledge of genetics. A "standard" is just that - it's the "Standard" that dogs are judged against.  They are going to improve it?  If so, doesn't that change the standard? creating a new one?   They are not happy with the standard the way it is? And yet they pride themselves in conforming to it?

I've found that breeders just like to hear themselves pompously saying "I breed to improve the breed standard"  as though it puts them in some higher reincarnation level or something. It's really a worthless statement. And 9 times out of 10 if you question those breeders about their knowledge of genetics, they come up with bupkis. 

 ***********

Bottom line is - don't go by what breeders SAY they are going to do, look at what they are doing....right now.   Question them using the proper breeder guidelines (outlined in the previous sections on this page), request to talk to the owners of their puppies. Do your research thoroughly and be absolutely sure of the breeder and the puppy before you purchase one.....and Bob's your uncle.  :-)

Please watch out for scammers, especially if you have advertised on the net that you are looking for a puppy.

Boiled down version of conversation I had with an emailer (who evidently confused the word "breeder" with "buyer"):

(him) "I have very nice Dashund puppy for sale, very rare, very cheap. I want good owner to take care of, please."

(me) [yeah, like I'm going to fall for that] "I'm looking for a very special type of Dachshund called an "Appaloosa" is that the type you have?"

(him)  "Oh yes! He is much appaloosa!  Very beautiful!"

(me) [chuckling while picturing an appaloosa Dachshund] "I intend to train him for chicken racing - so it's important that the puppy be able to run fast, jump high, tunnel and snorkle. Can your puppy be trained for that?"

(him) "Yes - he is doing all those things now!"

(me) [not quite being able to picture a snorkling Dachshund] "I might want to breed him, so it's important that he be checked out by an expert in Scientology."

(him) "That is no problem."

It went on for a little while longer, but you get the picture.

The promises might be different, but one thing won't change  - they either want: 1) money up front before handing over the (imaginary) puppy, or 2) ID and/or bank account information "to make money transfer easier."

The scams are getting a bit more sophisticated, but it's still a shame that nice folks are losing a lot of money to these guys.

I like the puppies to stay healthy and chubby and prefer them to be fed a special "puppy mush" made up of softened kibble and Goat's Milk. They should stay on that, with dry kibble to munch on, until they are over 12 weeks of age. That way they stay healthy, hydrated and nice and chubby during those important first few months. 

I think breeders are weaning baby puppies much too early - forcing them from the 100% milk diet of their mother - to a completely dry food in 2 - 3 weeks. That is awfully hard on their digestive system and contributes to dehydration and inability to cope with stress.

Our puppies go home with a small tub of mush (already made up, so the new puppy owner can see what the consistency is like), plus enough dry kibble and Goat's milk for a week or two. Goat's milk can be purchased in any grocery store, and there are several brands of good quality kibble available.

I hate it when breeders or vets claim that only one specific brand of food should be fed to all Dachshund puppies.  Just as children & adult human beings have different digestive systems, so do puppies & dogs. Rather than specify a brand, I prefer to set criteria regarding the puppy/dog food:

1. Be made of excellent quality ingredients.
2. Create stools that are small and firm.
3. Create nice coat & skin
4. Create good energy level.

5.  Keep your puppy/dog in good weight.

Some people swear by brands that other people have a problem with. The folks that have my puppies have used Royal Canin, Nutro (Ultra Holistic), and good old Purina Puppy Chow, and probably a lot of others. I tend to like to stay away from the huge food manufacturers (Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, Pedigree, etc), simply because I think the quality of the ingredients they use is probably not as good. But that's just my opinion. Basically - if the food adheres to the criteria listed above, and the puppy does well on it - whatever you use is fine.

I also give my kids (puppies and adults) a spoonful of Dannon Vanilla yogurt every day with a bit of Mirra-Coat powder mixed in. But many folks just give the Dannon Vanilla yogurt. I do think the yogurt helps with digestion and coat & skin.

I use Black Gold Ultimate Puppy for my babies and the Moms & Dads, but it's difficult to find here in Ohio, our local feedstore orders it for us, but we get it in big bags, which would not be practical for a person who has just one or two dogs.

It doesn't hurt to try different foods, many come in sample-size or small bags; and see which one the puppy does best on.

Whenever you have a dog whose digestion is upset, for any reason (old age, illness, weaning), etc. you really can't go wrong putting them on a Chicken & Rice diet....I've raised Dachshunds thru Danes from puppyhood to old age on it exclusively, and they were healthy as could be.
 
I used to use the huge 20 lb bags of rice that you can get at places like Sam's Club, but I was feeding 10 - 20  dogs.  For one or two dogs, the easiest rice to use is the Success Rice (boil in a bag). Takes 10 minutes and is just as good.
 
I use both chicken and chicken liver, and I prefer the chicken thighs which has nice dark meat and good bones (for the gelatin).  Boil up a bunch because then you can make up little baggies of meat and freeze them, taking out only what you need.
 
1. In a big pot put 9 chicken thighs and 1 container of chicken livers. Put water in - about 2 - 3 inches higher than the meat.  
 
2. Put on very low heat, cover and let it simmer until the meat is falling off the bones.
 
3. Let cool and then separate onto 3 paper plates - meat on one plate; skin & bones & the hard cartilage at the end of the bones on the 2nd plate, and chicken liver on the 3rd plate.
 
4. Throw out the plate that has the skin, bones and cartilage.
 
5. Take sandwich ziplock baggies and divide the meat and chicken liver equally between the baggies - putting both chicken meat and liver into each bag.
 
6. Put those baggies into a larger gallon ziplock baggie and put in the freezer. (To thaw, just take out a small baggie of the meat & liver, and leave out overnight on a paper towel on a paper plate. In the morning it will be thawed. Refrigerate.)

7. Take the remaining juice & goodie bits that are in the pot and pour into plastic container (I use Glad containers), and put it in the frig. As soon as it's cold, the fat will solidify on the top and you can skim it off with a fork and throw away. What is left is a treasure trove of nutritional gelatin goodness. Keep refrigerated and use as a gravy over the chicken & rice.
 
 
8. For meals, take some rice and chicken & liver and mix together. Pour over a little of the gelatin gravy and microwave until it's nice and warm and aromatic.  Dogs love it, it's highly nutritious and very easily digestible. (And regarding liver & kidney disfunctions, it's not so much leaving OUT the protein, as using a little protein - but high quality protein - which this is.)
 
You can mix the rice, chicken, liver & gravy together into a large container and feed it out for meals over 2 - 3 days.
 
If you are using this for a growing puppy, I would also supplement with either Nutrical or Pet Drops, etc.
 
Digestion is extremely important - because EVERYTHING stems from it. Stabilizing digestion (and you can use this recipe to do that) should be the first thing you do. If you want to wean the puppy/dog onto another form of dog food (ie kibble), just add it slowly to the chicken & rice meal. If the stools begin getting loose, discontinue that kibble and try another one. But you can keep the dog on this for his/her whole life and they'll do fine. I have.
 
This recipe is also outstanding as a "flavor enhancement" to dry kibble. If your dog is on a dry kibble that agrees with him (ie, he has firm stools, skin & coat is good, activity level is good, etc) but he dislikes the flavor of the kibble - add some of this chicken, liver, rice & gravy mixture to it - and he'll scarf it up - and it won't interfere with his digestion  :-)

After all, dogs' ancestors ate raw meat, and wolves & coyotes in the wild today eat raw meat.

 "Dogs' ancestors ate raw meat"   So what????  Our ancestors (yours and mine) ate raw meat, too. Does that mean that YOU eat it, too? If not - why not?

"Wolves in the wild today eat raw meat."  So what????  There are primitive human communities on earth today which eat raw meat, too. Does that mean that YOU eat it, too? If not - why not?

Why not? because it's dangerous - for both you and your beloved pet.

"Wolves and the ancestors of dogs ate a raw diet - that's how they survive/survived" Um....sure - some of them did/do survive, but do you have any clue about the survival rate? Animals are sometimes forced to eat things in the wild to prevent starvation - that doesn't mean that what they eat doesn't make them sick - or kill them. I won't go into detail here about the problems of parasites, bacteria, viruses and internal damage due to bone ingestion. Besides, zealots who have jumped on the "raw diet" bandwagon don't want to read the information; and sensible people don't need to read it  :-)  But for those who wish to learn more about it - the links below are excellent: (click on them to be taken to the sites)

Viruses jumping species due to the ingestion of raw meat

 Raw food diets

 Should your dogs eat Barf?

Raw bone myth

The below link leads to one of the very best informational sites on the net regarding the raw food diet for dogs. The link leads to an index with a list of pages on the left:

Raw food index

"Barfers" (as they like to call themselves) have, from the beginning, been a cult-like group that panics and over-reacts if you don't agree with them. They operate on myth and misinformation and are more interested in "converting the masses"  and destroying anyone who disagrees with them than actually researching the nutritional needs of dogs.

 

Dogs need to have a calcium to phosphorus ratio of 2:1 (twice as much calcium as phosphorus). Cottage cheese contains the opposite - more than twice the amount of phosphorus as calcium. Because the puppy's body will try to balance the ratio, it will compensate for the high phosphorus in cottage cheese by pulling calcium right out of those growing bones, cartilage and teeth. (And, by the way, many organ meats have a calcium to phosphorus ration of 1 to 15! - another reason the BARF (raw) diet is unsuitable.

That's like asking "What is the best diet for 'a human being'."  A LOT depends on the age of the human, where they live, what they do, what is available, what their nutritional needs are, etc. 

The question can only be answered by knowing the following:

What are you trying to achieve?  (weight loss, weight gain, stabilize digestion, assist in illness/injury recovery, etc.)

How old is the puppy/dog? (a puppy needs more protein & fat and more nutrients like calcium, than an adult dog)

What is the lifestyle of the puppy/dog? (working dog, energetic puppy, couch potato, etc.)

What breed is the puppy? (Big dog puppies like Great Danes have very different dietary needs than small dog puppies like Miniature Dachshunds)

Does your puppy/dog have any illnesses or concerns that needs a specialized diet?

Worried about the below popular generalizations?

"Changing foods will make my dog picky." Only from personal experience, it never made my kids picky, in fact it made them look forward to each meal. It certainly doesn't hurt to try different types of kibble and see if your puppy/dog does better on a particular one.

"Not changing foods will make my dog bored."  If your dog is overweight, "bored with his food" might not be so bad, yes?  Have a good quality food available, and when he is hungry enough, he'll eat it!  If you have a dog that is doing well on his food and you are worried that he is "missing out" by not being able to enjoy different foods, make him a nice "Sunday dinner" - chicken & rice, (or something similar) and let it be a special once-a-week treat.

Discussion about nutrition, whether human or canine, is FULL of controversy, contradictions, myths, truths, misinformation, and you could spend 24 hours a day studying it and never sorting it all out.

Basically, after the above questions are answered, all you need to know is:

1) Are the ingredients of good quality?
2) Does it make the stools small and firm? (indicating high digestibility)
3) Does it make the coat & skin look in good condition?
4) Does it give my dog enough energy? (either to compete in a Track & Field Event, or stay awake long enough to watch his favorite soap opera) 

5) Does it keep my dog in very good weight (puppies should NOT be thin, lean or slender for the first 6 months - they should be slightly chubby.)

Do NOT adhere to the "feeding instructions" on the back of dog food packages, or even your vet (if he says your puppy needs to be slender). It is very important for your puppy to stay chubby and hydrated for the first 6 months. You wouldn't limit the amount of food fed to a growing child, would you? Of course not!  YOU are the best judge of whether or not the food is good, and how much to feed your baby. Dachshund puppies are very energetic, and they NEED a lot of food to keep up their energy level. A puppy can lose weight and dehydrate quickly if ill or under stress, by giving them a little "something extra to fall back on" it will give you some measure of insurance that they stay healthy.

It's not brain surgery, it's not rocket science; it's basically common sense.

Most folks are aware that the really cheap brands of kibble are pretty much junk food, made with poor ingredients and containing very little nutrition. The same goes for the "kibbles & bits" type of foods that are like feeding a kid a diet of potato chips, cookies and candy instead of proper nutrition.  

But it might be surprising to people to know that some of the top name brands of kibble are also extremely poor in nutrition. Many times those companies tend to use all their money to advertise how good their food is, versus putting the money into research & development or purchasing higher quality ingredients for their kibble.

Below is a small list of dog foods which include a nutritional rating (which I saw on the net). Keep in mind that just because a food is NOT on the list - it doesn't mean that it is bad.  I've heard of other excellent brands of kibble - usually smaller companies, and not that well known (because they put more money into their product instead of advertising it) - but they have excellent kibble.

Dog Food scores:

Authority Harvest Baked / Score 116 = A+
Bil-Jac Select / Score 68 = F
Blue Buffalo / Score 114 = A+
Canidae All Life Stages Chicken & Rice / Score 94 = A
Canidae All Life Stages Lamb & Rice / Score 101 = A+
Canidae Platinum / Score 91 = B
Chicken Soup Senior / Score 115 = A+
Diamond Maintenance / Score 64 = F
Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 92 = B
Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula / Score 99 = A
Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance Ultra Premium / Score 122 = A+
Dick Van Patten's Duck and Potato / Score 106 = A+
Doctors Foster and Smith Adult Chicken & Brown Rice Formula / Score 101 = A+
Doctors Foster and Smith Adult Lamb & Brown Rice Formula / Score 102 = A+
Eagle Pack Holistic Select Large & Giant Breed Adult Formula / Score 101 = A+
Eagle Pack Super Premium Large & Giant Breed Puppy Formula / Score 97 = A
Eagle Pack Super Premium Natural Formula / Score 96 = A
Eukanuba Large Breed Puppy Formula / Score 82 = B
Foundations / Score 106 = A+
Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold / Score 93 = B
Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium / Score 73 = D
Innova Dog / Score 114 = A+
Innova Evo /Score 114 = A+
Kirkland Signature Chicken, Rice, and Vegetables (Costco brand) / Score 110 = A+
Natures Recipe Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 96 = A
Nutrisource Lamb and Rice / Score 87 = B
Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Puppy / Score 87 = B
Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Adult / Score 86 = B
Nutro Max Large Breed Adult / Score 85 = C
Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice / Score 23 = F
Premium Edge Chicken, Rice & Vegetables / Score 111 = A+
Premium Edge Lamb, Rice & Vegetables / Score 110 = A+
Premium Edge Puppy Large Breed Lamb, Rice & Vegetable / Score 104 = A+
ProPlan Natural Turkey & Barley / Score 103 = A+
Purina Beneful / Score 17 = F
Purina Dog / Score 62 = F
Purina Come-n-Get It / Score 16 = F
Royal Canin Bulldog / Score 100 = A+
Royal Canin Large Breed Giant Adult Formula / Score 95 = A
Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult / Score 106 = A+
Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice / Score 97 = A
Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ / Score 63 = F
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies / Score 69 = F
Wellness Fish & Sweet Potato (for skin & coat issues) / Score 108 = A+
Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken / Score 110 = A+
Wolfking Adult Dog (bison) by Solid Gold / Score 97 = A

Bottom line is - do your research!  Don't accept all the commercial propaganda. Find out exactly what quality of ingredients go into the kibble you use.  Remember - a sirloin steak and an old shoe are both "protein" - but one is nutritious & easy to digest and the other isn't.

Update:  The ONLY "light" or "diet" kibble I've found which I like is the "Chicken Soup - Adult Light"  - it is a wonderful kibble for overweight Dachshunds. Very nutritious (leading ingredients are duck & salmon), the dogs love it, it gives them lots of energy, keeps their coats in good condition and (most important with a "diet" kibble) keeps their bowel movements firm and infrequent (not soft and frequent as most diet kibble does).

It is important to know how to lift the puppy without damaging his tender limbs or back, or frightening him by causing pain. Be very gentle when handling your puppy. Don't pull him up by his front legs, as his bones are still soft, and this could cause long-term damage. Never lift, or allow a puppy to be lifted,by the scruff of the neck. This is extremely painful and gives him the feeling of being choked. Puppies should never be picked up by the shoulders or around their chest or middle. Never hold a Dachshund around the chest or middle - letting his back legs dangle without support.

To lift any dog, and especially long-backed dogs like Dachshunds (adults and puppies), place one hand under the chest and the other under his hindquarters, and slowly and firmly lift keeping his body horizontal and close to your body.

An excellent suggestion from Harvey's Mom, Leslie:

"I always try to use things that are non-toxic and edible if possible and my vet always recomends using a little white vinegar in water (about 1 part vinegar to 5 parts water) on a q-tip for ear cleaning.  It is mild and ear mites hate it. I had an ear spray from the vet for Henry once and he hated having it put in his ears!  Plus, it was actually an insecticide!  I don't have to worry if Henry or Harvey decide to lick each others little ears after using a mild vinegar solution for cleaning."

Crusty ear tips can have several different causes. Puppies are always licking each other and being licked by their Mom (and our other dogs) so if their ear tips get some puppy mush on them, it's always cleaned off.  When puppies go to their new homes, I always tell the new owners to keep an eye on the ear tips, and make sure they are clean and dry after the puppy eats.

However, crusty ear tips are not uncommon in adult dogs and it's important to heal them quickly before they damage the delicate ear flap edges. I stumbled upon a very easy and extremely effective remedy. I dip a facecloth in warm water and put a little Nizoral shampoo on it. (Nizoral contains the anti-fungal ingredient ketoconazole). Gently I massage the ear tips between the lathered facecloth. I rinse thoroughly and dry. Then, with a cotton swab, I brush on a mixture of cornstarch with Boric Acid powder. I did that twice a day for 2 days, and the ear tips healed up completely.

It is an easy remedy to try at home, however, if it does not do the trick, be sure to take your dog to a vet and get a culture done, to determine the exact problem.

I've had difficulty finding pharmaceutical grade Boric Acid powder in the US, and usually get a small 4oz container from the Dominican Republic (from sellers on ebay) "Acido Borico - Roldan."  I use it not only for crusty ear tips, but also for tear stains. (below)

Dogs with white faces, and in particular Double Dapple Dachshunds often have tear stains. Our deaf and blind little Double Dapple "Dazzle" (see her page "The Story of Dazzle") not only has a white face, but her eyes are misshapen (smaller than normal) and tear constantly. The below homemade product is the ONLY one that worked.

There are a lot of remedies on the net for Tear Stains, ranging from homemade solutions to expensive topical applications and expensive food additives. The very best remedy I've found (and the safest) is using a mixture of Boric Acid powder in pure cornstarch. The Boric Acid helps prevent infection and fungus and has a slight bleaching effect. The cornstarch absorbs the moisture and helps keep the hair dry.

I keep a small container which has about 1 part Boric Acid powder to about 5 parts of pure cornstarch. I scoop up a small amount on a cotton swab and brush the stained area gently against the hair - so that each hair shaft is coated. I turn the swab around and use the other clean swab for the other eye stain. 

When her eyes water a lot - during winter, especially, I might use the powder 3 times a day. When they do not water much, I use it once or twice a day.

It's safe, gentle, inexpensive and it works just as well, if not better than any commercial product being sold. 

Dachshunds and exercise, I've heard that they should never have exercise, and then I've heard they should have lots of exercise - which is correct?

Exercise is extremely important for Dachshunds - but the right kind of exercise is even more important. Lots of the correct kind of exercise helps strengthen and tighten muscles which surround the spinal column, helping to prevent back problems.

Good Exercise: Walking, Running (not forced), Swimming

Bad Exercise: Jumping up or down (ie onto or off from furniture), running up or down stairs, sitting up (as in sitting up to beg) or jumping up on hind legs. 

Very Bad Exercise: "Forced exercise" (ie having to keep up with a running or jogging human companion)

 Many Dachshunds are extremely athletic and it's difficult to keep them from jumping up onto  and down from furniture. It's a good idea to purchase (or make) little doggy steps and put them next to beds, chairs, couches, etc so the Dachshunds do not have to jump to get up or down. (We use "Deluxe Doggy Steps" which we purchase at Petco for $27. They are made of very sturdy plastic, are durable, easy to assemble (no tools), and have an easily washable faux sheepskin cover.) Ramps are even better - see the page "Dachshund Ramps."

I never, ever, put collars on my Dachshunds. Our Dachshunds wear harnesses when they are off our property. Collars can get caught on objects - furniture, fences, even on part of a crate when the dog is inside - and can strangle them. This happened to dogs which belonged to a couple friends of ours.

I used to have collars on all our dogs. But one day I was horrified by screaming coming from the back yard and found that, during play, one dog had gotten his bottom jaw underneath the collar of another and both were frantically twisting trying to get loose. During their frantic struggle, the collar was twisting. One dog was being nearly strangled with the collar tightening around his throat and the other dog's bottom jaw was bleeding profusely. I ran for a knife and managed to cut the collar, but my knees were shaking. And that was the LAST time I EVER let one of my precious kids run around with a collar on. Thinking about it - I don't know of any parent who would let a toddler run around with a necklace or chain (or anything similar) around his neck. If it got caught on something....bye bye baby.

Reasons why I do not recommend using collars on my puppies (besides the safety aspect mentioned above):

• They are not used to wearing anything around their neck and will likely fight it.
• They are apt to dash and if they come up suddenly at the end of a leash, it will give their neck a jerk; and it's dangerous for dogs (especially Dachshunds) to have their neck/spine stressed in any way.
• If you absolutely need to jerk the puppy back from a sudden and immediate dangerous situation (if they are in imminent danger),  jerking with a harness can be done quickly and relatively safely (unlike a collar).

Harnesses have a little metal ring near the top of the shoulder area where you attach the leash and can also be used to attach their license & rabies tags.

But when they are inside my house or in my escape-proof yard?  Nothing on their neck - absolutely nothing. (Our back yard is triple fenced and the inside fence is a secure 6 foot chain link fence, 5 feet above ground and 1 foot buried in the ground.)

When my Dachshund puppy gets the hiccups, does it mean he has worms?

Just as it is common for babies to get the hiccups, so it is for puppies. Many people feel this is a sign of worms in puppies, but in most cases, it's not. In the young, hiccups are most often caused by involuntary movements of the diaphragm, the large muscle that separates the chest cavity from the abdomen. The contractions and relaxations of this muscle allows us to breathe. The diaphragm is controlled by the phrenic nerve.

As animals are growing or developing there may be an incoordination between this nerve and the diaphragm causing a muscle spasm within the diaphragm that results in hiccups. This is common in puppies just as it is in human babies. So don't think that your puppy has worms just because of an occasional bout of hiccups. In most cases it's just part of the growing up process in which the different parts of the body are learning to work together (in this case the phrenic nerve and the diaphragm.) 

If my Dachshund scoots his rear end, does that mean he has worms?

Some dogs scoot because of parasites like tapeworm because segments of the worm are passed through the anus, but it is highly unlikely that little puppies are even old enough to have tapeworm. However the action of scooting simply means the dog has an itch. Usually the scooting means the anal glands need attending, or in the case of little puppies who often nibble on twigs, grass and other inedibles - the foreign items itch as they pass through the rectum and anus.

 

Animals are most susceptible to these parasites when they are young. As they grow older, an effective immunization usually develops against some of the invaders (ie they become dormant in adult dogs). However, during a pregnancy this immunization lapses (ie pregnancy breaks the dormancy). To compound the problem, parasites can travel through the placental circulation system and infect the unborn. Ironically, parasites can also infect nursing puppies through the mother's milk, which at the same time is passing along immunities to other health threats.That is why puppies are routinely given a series of worming medications.

Garlic won't prevent worms (and, by the way, kissing your dog won't give you worms, either).

I heard of a puppy who came down with Parvo even though he had been vaccinated, how could that have happened?

 I can think of three possible reasons for that happening:

1. The puppy was not given a complete series of vaccinations.
2. The vaccines used were of poor quality
3. The puppy was over-vaccinated (ie given a modified live vaccine too frequently instead of having the vaccinations properly spaced 4 weeks apart.)

My puppy came down with Tracheo-Bronchitis a week after I used the intra-nasal vaccine which was supposed to prevent it - how come?

Unfortunately, there is a popular intra-nasal vaccine on the market today (manufactured by a huge drug company) which is too strong.  The drug company, and distributors who sell it, claim that the post-vaccination reaction is "Canine Cough Syndrome" - which is a bunch of horse-hockey. They figured if they put a fancy "syndrome" name on the reaction, it will convince folks that it isn't really tracheo-bronchitis at all (the very virus that the vaccine is supposed to prevent).  But all you have to do is administer the trachea pressure test, and you will see that it is, indeed,  tracheo-bronchitis.

The drug company and distributors might say, "We've sold a LOT of these vaccines, and severe post-vaccination reactions are very rare."  Yeah - right - and how many of those breeders/vets who administered the vaccines slept in the same room with those puppies???  If their puppies live in a kennel or another room, how in the Sam Hill could they KNOW if those poor puppies were coughing all night long?  Our babies sleep in the same room with us, and it was heartbreaking to hear them hacking and hoarsely coughing ALL night long. We rushed them to our vet who treated them with anti-inflammatories and antibiotics which helped ease the coughing. 

Her advice was to stay far, far away from Bordatella intra-nasal vaccines.......FAR away.

Why do puppies have to have a "series" of vaccinations?

While nursing, a puppy receives a degree of immunity to some canine diseases through the mother's milk (particularly the colostrum). The immunity passed from the mother to the puppy is only for those diseases the mother has been exposed to and recovered from, or has been vaccinated against. The puppy is protected by the "maternal immunity" anywhere from 4 to 12 weeks. This "maternal immunity" passed to the puppy can interfere with a vaccination's effectiveness and it is difficult to determine when this immunity is depleted, which is why puppies need to be vaccinated early and given a number of doses.

When should a puppy be given his first vaccination and how often should he be vaccinated?

There are different kinds of vaccines – killed vaccines, modified live vaccines, combination vaccines, etc.  If the mother of the puppy has been properly vaccinated, there is absolutely no need to begin vaccinations earlier  than 5 - 6 weeks. (If the mother has not been vaccinated, then a killed vaccine may be given earlier.)  Ideally, a puppy should be ready for his new home at 8 weeks of age. Modified live vaccines should NEVER be given closer than 3 weeks apart (they should preferably be given 4 weeks apart); therefore, if a puppy has been vaccinated at 5 or 6 weeks – the minimum age for his second vaccination should be 8 or 9 weeks, respectively.

Breeders who stress that their puppies have “two vaccinations before leaving” (and if they are using modified live vaccines and if they place their puppies at 8 weeks of age) can be over-vaccinating their puppies – particularly if they have stipulated in a contract that the puppy must be seen by a licensed veterinarian “2 – 7 days after purchase”, at which time the vet may  routinely administer another vaccination.

I have heard of breeders insisting on giving modified live vaccines every two weeks (!) Every four weeks is sufficient – no matter what breed. Over-immunizing animals is common knowledge among immunologists. I won’t go into details, but not only will the over-immunized puppy not produce more antibodies, it’s own immune system will be compromised making it susceptible to the very illnesses it is being vaccinated against.

The quality of all vaccines are not alike. The cheap off-brand vaccines that can be purchased at feed stores (or pet stores) have been through several hands - the manufacturer, the distributor, the main store, the retail store, etc. During all those moves, they might not have been kept refrigerated the whole time, and lost their effectiveness.

If you purchase your own vaccines - be sure they are one of the well-known top brands. Purchase them from a well-known supplier and have them shipped overnight on ice. Refrigerate them immediately, keep them wrapped in foil to limit exposure to light, and use before the expiration date.

At about the same time you decide to get a puppy, begin looking for the veterinarian who will provide the health services he will periodically require through his life. These services range from routine examination and preventative care to treatment of acute illnesses and life-threatening emergencies. The three main factors to consider in making your choice are professional competence, the facilities and equipment available for diagnosis and treatment, and the attitudes and personality of the veterinarian as they may affect your relationship.

As you look around the facilities, make sure the office, examination and treatment rooms are clean and well equipped. Do the patients look well cared for and reasonably content? Are healthy animals kept separated from sick ones? If boarding is available, are the housing and exercise facilities adequate? The facility should be conveniently located and open at hours that are reasonable for you. It should be covered by a twenty-four-hour emergency service - this is most important. Moreover, the staff should be friendly and enjoy caring for your pet. It is important to have a vet who responds well to you and especially to your dog. See if the vet takes time to talk to him and reassure him and also is knowledgeable and informative when you ask questions. The veterinarian’s personality should mesh with yours, and the charges should be acceptable to you.

You and the veterinarian will act as a team to provide the health care your dog will need over the course of many years.

Stay away from veterinarians who:

• are associated with Pet Stores, Dog Auctions, etc. They have a financial interest in keeping the Pet Stores and Auctioneers happy, they will NOT have your puppy's best interest at heart. 

• offer "Puppy Wellness Packets." The cheaper ones ($200 - $300) contain unnecessary and possibly detrimental procedures, such as; several fecal tests (ONE is all you need AFTER the puppy has finished his course of puppy wormings - to make sure that all the wormings have done their job); dangerous "combination" shots; and toxic flea & heartworm prevention pills and drops.  I am NOT against flea & heartworm prevention, but I do NOT care for the most expensive, most recent {and usually least researched) products that the vets use. You can purchase the very same (or better) products (which will be less expensive) over the counter - IF you know the proper items to look for and how to dose them properly.

• and stay FAR away from vets who offer the terribly expensive "Puppy Wellness Packets - from $500 on up. (These vets are commonly associated with Pet Stores.)  I saw a pamphlet advertising that "service" from an unscrupulous vet clinic next door to (or was it inside?) a Pet Store - it contained a list of procedures deliberately written in "medical jargon" to sound high falutin' and confusing to folks, and made me madder than a wet hen; because it was chock full of ludicrous procedures that were absolutely unnecessary for a young puppy. Those type of vets play on the emotional love that folks have for their pets, but have only one goal in mind - to pick their clients' pockets clean while offering nothing in return.The "procedures" offered came to about a total of $30 their cost, and they were charging $700 for it. Unbelievable!

Personally, I want to know if they are a member of the American Animal Hospital Association, do they provide laser surgery, do they have their own in-house lab, and do they do their own emergencies - and not shuffle their clients off to some "Emergency Service."  

Make SURE that there is someone at the clinic ALL NIGHT LONG. A friend of mine worked in a vet clinic and one night it caught fire (arson was suspected). Since there was no one there, the fire quickly spread out of control and by the time people arrived they could hear the animals screaming....until the oxygen tanks in the operating room blew up. The building burned to the ground - there were no survivors.  Besides the fear of fire and burglars after the controlled drugs, how on earth can the clinic monitor your very sick dog if no one is there?

When we moved here, we had a small terrier with a slight skin problem (cause & treatment already known) and we visited all the vets in our area. It was to see how they treated us and our beloved terrier, what their office visit prices were, what their diagnosis was and what (if any) further tests they recommended.  For the cost of several office visits, we were able to compare each one and make an informed decision on which to choose.

For many reasons, pain relief for animals has often been less of a priority than it is for humans. There are many reasons pain relief is not routinely provided to animals. Perhaps the most common is that the amount of pain endured is often underestimated because animals cannot tell you how they feel, also they often try to hide the pain (in the wild an animal who shows pain is the one the predators go for first).

Side effects are another reason for under-use of many pain-relieving drugs. Some traditional human pain relievers are potentially toxic to dogs. Another common reason for ignoring pain is the mistaken assumption that pain is Mother Nature's way of keeping the patient restrained to prevent it from harming itself. But studies clearly prove that pain increases movement and prevents rest. Animals provided with pain relief are more comfortable, move about much less and recover more quickly.

Because canine behavior is a poor indicator of pain, a good rule to follow for providing pain relief is: A procedure that is known to be painful in humans should be treated as such in veterinary patients. This includes bone surgery, dental extractions, abdominal or chest surgery, major trauma or chronically painful diseases such as cancer or arthritis. Our dogs do feel pain and do deserve to get relief.

Many vets call Carprofen (aka Rimadyl, Novox) "pain pills." They are NOT pain pills - they are anti-inflammatories. Carprofen is a NSAID (Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drug) and is commonly used to relieve arthritis inflammation - it is NOT going to relieve pain from a surgical operation. That would be like a doctor handing you an ibuprofen (aka Advil) pill after your surgery and calling it a "pain pill" instead of giving you demerol or codeine.

I insist on a narcotic pain reliever for the females. I'd like to see a vet have their abdomen opened and messed around with inside, and recover using just Carprofen. The narcotic pain reliever keeps the females comfortable and quiet for the first couple days (only occasionally will a female need it longer), and the difference between using that and Carprofen is night and day. Anyone who is truly in tune with their dogs can see it immediately.

For males after neutering, if the vet prescribes Carprofen (aka Rimadyl, Novox) that's fine <shrug> - but call the medication what it IS - an anti-inflammatory - NOT a pain pill. 

After all the recalls of items made in China; pet food, pet snacks, baby formula, toys, dishes & bowls, etc., I recommend that ANY products which will come in contact with your puppy's mouth be made in the United States, and (hopefully) not contain ANY ingredients, chemicals or materials that come from China, Taiwan, Mexico, Argentina, etc. 

I was appalled that not only every major pet food company (either themselves or via a subsidiary company) were involved in the recall, but also the pet food sold by veterinarians.  And I am incredulous after a recent shopping trip that every single store in our town had only "non-US made" puppy toys and rawhide treats (with the exception of two toys, the horrible & dangerous nylabones and the heavy, tough plastic toys which were not suitable for baby Dachshunds). Even a rawhide chew clearly labeled with the Brand Name "Milk Bone" was, upon checking the label, made in China!

I highly recommend that pet food, pet snacks, rawhide items, toys, and food & water dishes be "100% US made."  Instead of pandering to the cheap, highly unregulated and questionable quality (and possibly dangerous) items that are foreign made - lets support safe and non-toxic "US made" items for our pets.

An owner of a new puppy emailed and asked me to recommend some rawhide chews and toys for her new baby, from a well-known (and formerly reputable) online business which specializes in vaccines and animal products. I looked at the site and chose a selection of 3 rawhide toy treats which I thought the tiny puppy would enjoy. Not until an hour later when my husband reminded me, did I hastily email her again and told her to make sure that the rawhide chew toys were made in the US.

She immediately contacted the company who told her that all the rawhide was "non US made" and even though she had only placed her order an hour or so previously, they refused to cancel her order - saying that she could return the items and they would "credit her account."  That told me, right then and there, that they were using a dropshipper (probably a cheap import company) for the rawhide they were selling and were just forwarding the orders to them.

I had dealt with this particular online business for over 20 years; and would NEVER have expected them to do anything like that. So just because a business or company is "well known" and/or "reputable" - do NOT assume that all their products will be safe.  Ask, ask, ask.....and closely examine the label of everything you purchase for your pet; and make sure that it's not made in a foreign country.

It's a very sad state of affairs when you have to investigate every little thing you purchase for your pet, and not take the "veterinarian approved" labels at face value. But in a society where profit is often the bottom line and gimmicks abound; I'd rather be safe than sorry when it comes to my precious kids.

Additional notation:  I just re-visited that (formerly reputable) business and right on their website they have stated: "[their company name] goes to great lengths to ensure that our rawhide chews are the absolute best. Made from premium beef hide, produced in the U.S.A., our rawhide is created only by manufacturers we trust to adhere strictly to our approved manufacturing processes, and consistently live up to our high quality standards." 

What a crock!  They advertise on their rawhide pages that the "beef hide is produced in the US", and yet when folks call them and ask if the rawhide is US-made, they admit that it is imported from China and Argentina !!!!!

So products labeled "Made in America" and "Veterinarian Approved" means they are safe, right?

No - and let me tell you why. I had no idea until just now that any product that is packaged or assembled in America (regardless of where the contents/ingredients came from or where it was processed/manufactured) can legally display the label "Made in America." (!)

Right this minute, I am looking at a small package of "Rawhide Twists" (small sticks of twisted rawhide.) The front of the plastic package has big letters right at the top "AMERICAN Rawhide" and beneath "Made in America" and "Veterinarian Recommended."  Turning it over, there is a tiny, thin sticker (easily removed and halfway off already) that states "100% American Beefhide, Packaged in the USA and Processed in Mexico." That sticker could EASILY have come off and you would never know by looking at the package that the rawhide was processed in Mexico.  So don't believe any of the "Made in America" labels. If the package doesn't say that the contents were:

• made 100% from US materials/ingredients, and
  
• processed/manufactured in the US, and
  
• packaged in the US

CALL the company and ask those questions.

There ARE brand name rawhide items that are completely made here in the US, however some of the items contain bone, be careful and look the product over carefully, and do not purchase those items containing bone for your Dachshund.

 Update: "Exer-Hides" "Rawhide Chips for Dogs" purchased at Wal-Mart have the words "Made in USA" on the back of the package. I emailed Wal-Mart and received this just now from cstreply@wal-mart.com: "

"Dear Jan

"Thank you for contacting us about the Exer-Hides Rawhide Chips. We have forwarded your request to our buying office and we have received the following information to share with you.

"As per our buying office, The product is made in Brazil, of Brazilian bovine hide and sent to the USA in large super sacks.  We package the product in the US, with packaging materials from the US."

Anyone can whack a label that says "Veterinarian Approved", "Approved by Veterinarians", "Made in America", "American Made" or "Made in the USA" on a product - but it's only a selling gimmick - don't fall for it.

No...no....no...no...no....no.....<shaking head>  Really LEARN about the product - do not fall for the marketing gimmicks and phrases that companies use to sell things.

Ask the "Big Three" questions:
1. Does the product contain 100% US ingredients
2. Is the product manufactured/proccessed (or assembled in the case of toys, etc) in the US
3. Is the product packaged/labeled in the US

For medications and treats - Read The Label!  No - not the "Brand Name" & gimmick phrases which are in big letters on the front. Turn the item over and read the ingredients (usually in small print).

Once you start reading ingredient labels - whether on pet products or people products, I'll bet you'll be amazed.

For instance - do you know what the difference is between 1) "Benedryl" and 2) "Sominex" ?   NOTHING - Read the ingredient label!  Both have the active ingredient "diphenhydramine" - which is an antihistamine. Since diphenhydramine usually makes people sleepy - it is also allowed to be marketed as a "sleep aid (ie Sominex)."

Do you know the difference between 1) Tylenol PM and 2) a regular tylenol with either Benedryl or Sominex?  NOTHING! Tylenol PM is only acetaminophin plus diphenhydramine.  

Do you know the difference between 1) Anacin and 2) a regular aspirin and a cup of coffee?  NOTHING! The ingredients in Anacin are aspirin and caffeine - read the label.

Learn to read ingredient labels - for everything. Do NOT rely on the marketing hype which "claim" this or that.

And I do think it's important for things that will be ingested or come into contact with your pet's mouth be made of  100%  US ingredients, processed/manufactured here in the US, and packaged/labeled in the US.  Do you know how many medications - even human prescription medications - use ingredients supplied from China - or are even MADE in China?  Never mind, that's another story.

Because you adore your beloved pet and want the best for him/her - PLEASE read the ingredient labels, or contact the company and find out what the ingredients/contents are. Also find out answers to the "Big Three" questions (above). Do NOT rely on marketing hype and gimmicky phrases.

Update:  I went to an "Only Natural" online store that proclaimed their pet treats were "natural" "holistic" & "organic" (and all in one sentence....lololol).  Searching their site trying to find if their treats were made here in the US or imported was like looking all around Robin Hood's barn. I emailed and asked them point blank the "Big Three" questions about their treats. I received this response:

[Quote]
We do carry some treats and items that are made in China. However, these items will include a special statement online. For example: "[_____]  treats contain NO Pesticides, NO Melamine, NO Bacteria and NO Contaminants. [_______] tests all of their treats at an independent third party FDA approved laboratory and they have USDA approved import permits in every state in the U.S. Their manufacturing facilities are USDA approved."
[Unquote]

How in the name of Jumpin' Jehosephat is ANYONE expected to deduce from the above "special statement" that the stuff comes from China? Especially given the name of the website and the description on it of their products being "natural, "holistic" and "organic?"   What a bunch of horse hockey!

For the sake of your pet's health - be an INFORMED consumer, and do NOT be afraid to ask point-blank questions (not only about things you purchase for your pet, but also what your veterinarian is prescribing).

Are the Snuggle Puppies (the ones with a heartbeat and warmer) safe?

No. Even if they were not made in China (which they are), the fact that they contain batteries and hand/foot warmer packets make them unsafe for puppies. Some claim to have an opening for a babybottle, which of course would be extremely bad for a puppy to use since no one would be tipping the bottle to make sure the puppy did not ingest air.

Another example of how folks are looking for an "easy out"  - a way to not have to properly care for a puppy (just like crates);  stick the poor puppy in a crate, or plop the puppy down with a Snuggle Puppy - and just forget about him instead of properly spending time training, loving and comforting the baby.

 

 

(This pertains to family dogs.)

99 times out of 100 - yes. All animals (humans and dogs alike) have an innate sense of proper behavior and manners, and training children (2-legged or 4-legged) is part of life. Our puppies are taught by their mother, their siblings and finally the older dogs in our home. Most dogs will instinctively know how to properly discipline a puppy.

The ONLY time you'll need to interfere is if the discipline is physically harming the puppy (resulting in scratches cuts, bleeding), making the puppy scream nonstop, or if the disciplinarian is standing over the puppy for a LONG time (extended minutes) while the puppy is submitting (usually on his back). In other words, don't interfere as long as the puppy is not physically or emotionally injured. If you have happy, healthy and well-adjusted dogs, they will likely discipline the puppy properly.

Adult Dachshunds will frequently discipline a puppy by sitting on him. That means "Time Out" or "Chill."  It tells the puppy, "I don't like what you are doing, so now I'm going to physically prevent you from doing it."  It's humane, it's effective - and it gets the point across. Don't stop your adult Dachshund from doing this. Your little puppy is going to learn MORE about manners and good behavior from your other dog/s than from you.

Hubby just reminded me of something. This pertains to Danes, who have a different way of telling a puppy to "chill". Naturally they don't "sit" on puppies because they know their huge weight would hurt them, so they do a "time out" a bit differently. Example: Eagle was a little 8-week-old rescue Dane puppy (about 20 lbs) and she was up on the couch with Sundance (a 180-lb male Dane). She was pulling his lip, grabbing it and backing up. He tried to let her know by a soft growl that he didn't like what she was doing. But she was deaf (she was white and born stone deaf) so she didn't respond to his warnings. Finally he lifted a paw and put it on top of her - pinning her down; not hurting her, but preventing her from pulling his lip; and although she struggled, she couldn't get up. He realized that she was not responding to the "normal" warnings (growling) and decided to give her a "time out" by physically preventing her from doing what she was doing. Once she chilled for a few minutes, he let her up - and she DIDN'T go back to pulling his lip.

However, if you have a handicapped dog (sight and/or hearing-impaired, crippled) or a sick dog, or a very old dog - they are NOT likely to be appropriate disciplinarians.  There are exceptions of course, but I believe that, in general, handicapped, sick or very old dogs have a tendency to be much too harsh in their discipline, perhaps because they feel threatened or vulnerable?  I don't know. But watch a handicapped, sick or very old dog closely with a little puppy, and if the puppy is bothering him/her - intervene immediately.

Puppies respond to positive reinforcement, that is - rewarding good behavior. Negative enforcement can be  emotionally damaging to a puppy if it is too harsh; or it can be ineffective if done lightly while laughing or if the puppy views it as a game. 

Puppies learn a LOT by observing older dogs. That is why many folks will get a puppy while they still have an older dog. Puppies can learn a lot from each other, also; especially regarding which type of play is appropriate and will be tolerated.

There are times when it will be necessary to discipline a puppy - they need to learn right from wrong  just like any other children. Personally, I dislike using physical discipline, and only use it if a dog is hurting another dog or a person. Fighting is not tolerated in our home.

For times when verbal discipline is not enough, but the situation does not warrant physical (hands on) discipline, I have found that "aversion training" with a squirt bottle works very well. Always remember to use the verbal command FIRST, thereby giving the puppy the opportunity to obey; then if he continues the behavior - use the squirt bottle (filled with water only). You'll be surprised how quickly he will learn.

Train your dog to take treats gently from hands. If your dog is a "grabber" he might inadvertently nip you. For "grabbers" close the treat in your fist, covering it completely, back of the hand upward, and then put your fisted hand in front of the dog's nose and let him smell that you have a treat. If he tries to grab, "NO!" in a firm tone, but do not draw your hand back. Wait until he is quiet and no longer attempting to grab and then, very slowly, turn your fisted hand over so the back of the hand is facing down. Keep your fist closed. Allow him to sniff, but if there is any attempt to grab, "NO!" - and do not open your fingers until he is quiet and no longer attempting to grab (sniffing is okay). Then slowly, slowly, slowly open your fingers. Typically dogs will then gently take the treat.  "Good Boy!"   You will need to do this quite a few times with "grabbers", but they will eventually learn not to grab.  

The very worst thing you can do with "grabbers" is to show them a treat and hold it just out of their reach and keep saying "No....No...No..." or "Wait....Wait....Wait..."  OR pulling the treat back when they try to grab - those actions are perceived as taunting and of COURSE they will grab for it.  Keep the treat in your fist and immediately place your fist in front of the dog's nose - so he will have no need to grab for it.

Another thing - before you hand out a treat or a spoonful of yogurt - say the dog's name. Let him KNOW that this is for HIM- and him only.  Don't let 2 or more dogs start grabbing for something they each "perceive" is theirs, or something they think they'd better get before the other dog does.  That creates "grabbers" and contributes to quarreling between the dogs. As soon as each dog KNOWS they will get their treat in turn, they will all wait quietly and patiently for it.

And first come, first serve - the dog that was in the home the longest should be given the treat first, then the next longest resident, etc. etc. etc. - regardless of actual age.

If you have a pill or something that you want to give one dog, but not the other, make sure that ALL the dogs (in their turn) get some kind of treat. That will help prevent jealously.

How do I introduce my new little puppy to other family dogs?

(This pertains to FAMILY dogs - that is, dogs that LIVE in the same house as the puppy.)

Each new owner of one of our puppies gets "Special Instruction Sheets" that are tailored for that particular puppy and the family (including other dogs) he will be going to. Introducing the puppy to family dogs is fully covered in those sheets. However, sometimes folks visit with their dogs, or you meet another dog while out on walks and want the puppy and dog to become friends. Our little puppies are raised around lots of other dogs - so they automatically assume that any dog is going to be their friend and might run at the dog trying to initiate play. The older dog might be a bit taken back at having a little whippersnapper dashing right up to him and nipping at his paws...lololol  

Sit on the floor and take the puppy in your lap, then have the other dog's owner sit beside you and call his dog. While the new owner speaks to his dog and pets the baby puppy, allow the dog to sniff the puppy all over - for as long as he wants - as long as the puppy is not frightened. While he does this hold the puppy so he doesn't run after the dog. Allow the dog to satisfy his/her curiosity about the puppy. Then the little puppy won't seem so strange and intimidating, and the older dog will be more likely to play with, or at least tolerate, the new baby.

Can't I just put my puppy down around strange dogs?

(This pertains to non-family dogs - and this includes relatives' dogs who do NOT live in the same house as the puppy.)

Whenever you have your puppy with a strange dog OR a bunch of strange dogs - particularly male/s or large, NEVER put him on the floor to fend for himself (!) 

Cowering down or squealing in fright can be an invitation for another dog (or other dogs) to jump the puppy and hurt him badly - if not kill him.  I've seen it - and it happens in a split second.  Keep the puppy in your arms and if HE wants to sniff a dog, and the dog is agreeable, then allow the puppy to do so.If another dog wants to sniff your puppy, and your puppy is reluctant - do NOT ever allow it.

Having dogs together who don't know each other can be VERY dangerous...folks tend to think that they are like children and you can just put two (or a bunch) together who don't know each other. NOPE!  That is a recipe for disaster. Dogs can be very quick, and if one dog or puppy squeals in fright or pain, there is a good chance that the rest of the pack will jump on the dog/puppy and tear it apart.  Not nice, but that's part of "pack mentality."  Never, never, never put your puppy down around a strange dog - let alone a bunch of strange dogs.

Idiots who think it's soooooo cute to see a tiny little puppy run up to a large dog who is obviously uncomfortable (or timid) around the puppy are ignorant.  It's NOT cute. The large dog is NOT acting - he doesn't want the puppy around him. Allowing the puppy to invade his space is an invitation to disaster; if the large dog lunges or reacts self-defensively, the puppy could be injured - or at the very least, be severely startled; and you DON'T want to put a little puppy (or a large dog) in that position. People who think it's cute need to grow a brain.

And don't ever let any stranger, especially a child, pick your puppy up - I don't care if the person/child knows how to properly lift Dachshunds or not. Your puppy will tell you when HE want to be picked up by another person. If the puppy wants the person to pick him up (properly) fine, but otherwise - never, never, never. 

There are quite a few "Doggy Day Cares" and nationwide boarding facilities that put groups of unfamiliar dogs together for a "group playtime."

These people (either misguided or deliberately deceitful) want to convince folks that dogs will act just like children and "play nicely" as if in some kind of fantasy kindergarten or fantasy summer camp. You cannot expect a group of dogs to act like a group of children....period.  In actuality, putting a group of strange dogs together is a recipe for disaster because dogs are governed by pack behavior. Ever hear one dog start howling and the others join in? Ever see one dog get excited and start barking - and the others join in? That is pack behavior.

Someone recently mentioned that she worked at one of the boarding facilities that promoted "group playtime," and told me that, because each dog is "interviewed," the safety of every dog there is assured. She also said that employees carry squirt guns/bottles and have access to water hoses in case a fight breaks out. Obviously she was very inexperienced in breaking up dog fights. Squirt guns and hoses will do nothing but further enrage dogs who are seriously fighting. (Dogs are not cats.  Cats have a strong inborn dislike of water - dogs don't. Dogs might not like getting squirted in the face with a spray bottle, but if you think getting sprayed with water is going to stop one dog from killing another - whether it's Great Danes, Labs or Chihuahuas - you are very much mistaken.)  It takes a lot of skill and savvy to break up an honest-to-goodness fight without getting injured yourself.  And if you have 2 seriously fighting dogs among a group of strange dogs....you are asking for an unimaginable bloody mess because other dogs are more than likely to join in. That is pack behavior.

This is because the evolutionary development of animals has always been on a predator/prey type scenario. And perhaps humans had a similar scenario way back in history, but they evolved into completely different social structures than animals.  Any animal who showed pain (or exhibited unusual behavior or sound)  was the one targeted by the predator and not likely to last long. Many species (including wolves, coyotes, dingos, etc) actually kill members of their own pack if the animal is exhibiting abnormal behavior (in movement or sound)....he would be a danger to the pack, you see; inviting the attention of predators.

Attacking another dog - even if the dog is a close "friend"  - because the dog is acting or sounding 'different' is an instinctive act. 'Instinctive behavior' is different than 'learned behavior.' When cats "play" with injured mice or birds, that's due to instinctive behavior and you're not going to be able to prevent them from doing so.  Understanding 'instinctive behavior' is part and parcel of being a responsible pet owner - or pet caretaker.

One surprised yelp (even from a simple unexpected butt sniff) and other dogs could join in a frenzy of attacking the dog who yelped, or who gave a defensive growl because he was scared, or who was feeling ill that day and acted frightened - and the poor dog could be seriously injured or even torn apart before anyone could help.

And there is no way on God's green earth that a stranger can evaluate or "interview" a dog in 20 - 30 minutes and determine whether or not that dog will ever be a threat to another dog. It's just not that simple. Dogs are governed by pack behavior - and even though a dog is not aggressive to another while "being interviewed," he could very well become aggressive when among a group of strange dogs if a fight breaks out. It's not a reflection on that particular dog's personality or emotional health - it's simply a result of pack behavior.

Why are these people disregarding common sense and putting strange dogs together like this?  Money.  Some of these boarding facilities are evidently some kind of franchise, and the start up fees run over $100,000.  It's a money-making scheme that tries to attract gullible people into purchasing a franchise and gullible dog owners into using the facilities.Gimmicky phrases like calling the dogs "campers" and making the facility sound like a real kindergarten or a real camp is just to bait folks into using them. Do not be taken in.

When I pointed out the dangers of "Group Playtime" to the person, and followed it with reviews I'd found on the net from folks who had picked up their dogs and found they were injured physically (gashes, cuts) and emotionally (shaking, displaying abnormal behavior),etc. - she accused me of "just looking for problems."  Yup - DARN RIGHT I look for problems!   Responsible pet owners (like responsible parents) will try to anticipate dangerous situations and avoid them at all cost. Children and pets are totally dependent upon us to ensure their safety; and if we do not do so, shame on us.

Please, please, please - never allow your dog to be part of any "group playtime" with strange dogs, whether at a boarding or daycare facility or at a dog park - you could be putting your dog in terrible, if not mortal, danger.

Like the marketing gimmicks of:

• food/treats being labeled "all natural" "holistic" etc. trying to make you think they are healthy, when in fact many are products from China or some other foreign country
• boarding kennels calling themselves "camps" and "retreats" etc., trying to make you think that they are special "fun places" and not really boarding kennels
• groomers calling themselves "spas", trying to make you think that they are more than groomers and that your dog is going to absolutely love all the strange things that are being done to him.

I've touched on the first two in previous paragraphs, but I haven't mentioned groomers or grooming much, and I'd like to make 2 points:

1. Dogs get bathed too often, and it's not necessary. Dogs don't need baths like humans. Humans have sweat glands all over their body - which is why they need to bathe. Dogs don't use sweat glands (like humans) to cool their bodies, they pant. If you feel you MUST bathe a puppy or dog, I would not use anything other than a tiny (TINY!)  amount of Johnson's No-More-Tears (or tearless) baby shampoo, and rinse, rinse, rinse.  No conditioner - ever, for puppies or adults.  The only thing I ever put on my kids' coats is a tiny bit of Avon's Skin So Soft in the summer months when they spend hours during the evening by the pond. We have a small farm next door and there are deer flies and horseflies which bother the dogs; also, the Skin So Soft repels mosquitoes which congregate near the pond. I rub a few drops on my hands and then run my hands over the coats. It also acts as a deterrent to other insects, (fleas, ticks, etc).

People (and vets) are SO quick to point to diet as a cause of a bad coat. The first thing I say to anyone who contacts me about a dog/puppy with a bad coat is, "How often are you bathing him, and what are you using?"  In my humble opinion, it's the bathing that is destroying the natural oils on a dogs coat and skin....they were not meant to be bathed often, they really aren't.  The only exception is if the dog has a medical skin condition that warrants special bathing.  A little Dachshund will do just fine with a brushing. Instead of investing in "dog shampoos" or taking them to a groomer - research some really good, soft, boar bristle brushes - and they don't have to be for dogs; you can use a good quality human one. Brushing with that, combined with a good quality kibble and a daily spoonful of Dannon Vanilla yogurt with Mirra-Coat powder will make their coats shine like glass.  :-)

2. Does it ever occur to folks that the reason their dogs are so happy and ecstatic when they are picked up from a groomer is NOT because they enjoyed themselves so much, but because they are so happy to see their owners and be taken away from those places?  Don't be taken in by marketing gimmicks and phrases calling groomers "luxurious spas" (or whatever). They are groomers, period; and any dog would MUCH prefer being babied, pampered and groomed by his/her beloved owner at home. 

For folks who do need to use a professional groomer, always - always - always make SURE that you are going to a licensed groomer, and not just someone who claims that they are a professional groomer.  And - I can't stress this highly enough - ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO BARRIER BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR DOG AT ANY TIME. And make sure that you stay with him/her the entire time. Never, never, never take your dog to a groomer who does business behind closed doors and refuses to allow the owner to observe the proceedings every single second. I won't relate all the horror stories I know about groomers choking dogs, handling them roughly, shaving off nipples, having items spill on them from upper shelves, or putting them into cages with dryers and forgetting about them while the poor dogs cooked to death.....yes...that has happened. 

If your groomer is legitimate and kind and has nothing to hide - he/she does everything out in the open for all the customers to see - not behind closed doors.

But what if I WANT my puppy to become friends with another dog?

(This pertains to dogs that are NOT part of the puppy's household.)

Never put a strange dog in the position of HAVING to make friends with your puppy. Holding the dog on a short lead, making him sit or lie down when a puppy "invades" his space is cruel, it prevents him from getting away from the puppy. It doesn't matter if the dog has never hurt another dog, or is usually friendly with other dogs. The point is, don't FORCE the dog into a position where he HAS to put up with the puppy invading his space. And never allow your puppy to force himself on a strange dog - ever.

If you want them to become friends - take them both to NEUTRAL territory, not his house, not your house. Take them to a park or for a walk together. The dog will be LESS likely to try to get away from the puppy. There will be other things that will grab the puppy's attention and he'll be less focused on the dog; and the dog will relax more when around the puppy.
 
It's wrong to insist that dogs HAVE to become friends.....you wouldn't insist that a child HAVE to be friends with everyone, would you?  Dogs are just like humans, some feel comfortable around little ones, some don't.  I feel very uncomfortable around babies & toddlers (I find the constant noise very irritating), and highly resent ANYONE trying to push a little baby into my face.  I threatened to drop the last baby that was thrust into my arms, and the woman hastily took it back and never did it again....lololol
 
Give the dog some time and space, if HE wants to be friends with the puppy, he will. But trying to push or hasten the friendship could backfire.

Have the family member interact constantly with the puppy, holding him, stroking him, playing with him, sleeping next to him, giving him food, treats, etc.  

Puppies naturally gravitate to the people who laugh, giggle and have happy voices - those draw puppies like magnets. And puppies normally bond to the people they sleep with at night.

To truly bond with a puppy, you must form a deep level of understanding and devotion - and it's a two-way street.

Any hints to keep my baby from chewing on the furniture?

First, try to understand WHY the puppy is chewing. Is it from boredom? Is he teething? When puppies teeth (usually beginning at 4 months) their gums become swollen and tender. To ease the pain of teething you can add ice cubes to your puppy's water, the cold will help numb his tender gums. Or you might soak a washcloth in cold water and freeze it as a soothing antidote to his discomfort. Be sure to monitor him when you give it to him, if he begins to chew pieces off, remove it at once. A rawhide toy rubbed with bacon fat will also comfort him and he'll enjoy this for a long time because the rawhide is edible and the bacon fat is enticing.  

Some dogs chew because of frustration, boredom or loneliness. Give your puppy/dog the opportunity to exercise before you leave for work in the morning. To remedy loneliness leave the tv or radio on a low volume to provide soothing voices and musc. The best remedy for loneliness, however, is a companion. There are many unwanted puppies in SPCA's, Humane Societies, Rescues, etc. If you want to pick a companion for your puppy, it really helps to have a puppy who will be about his age and his breed size.

Hint #1 - don't waste your money purchasing any "anti-chew" commercial stuff - they usually don't work. 

Hint #2 - for tiny new babies who are basically just exploring and nibbling - spray the area with a little spray cologne. We love the smell, but dogs dislike it - and especially dislike tasting it. An added bonus -  it makes the house smell nice  :-) 

Hint #3 - for older determined chewers who keep going back to the same place, put a little Tabasco sauce on it; but do NOT do this with tiny little puppies - it will burn them terribly.

Hint #4 - For determined repeat offenders, try a squirt bottle filled with water, but remember to say "NO!" first, and give the Dachshund a chance to stop, if he doesn't, use the squirt bottle. It's called "aversion training" and it's humane and effective. 

Help! I'd like my Dachshund to stop digging holes in the yard!

And I'd like the summers here in Ohio to be less hot. 

Ain't gonna happen - for either of us.

Dachshunds were bred for hunting burrowing animals (ie badgers, rabbits, etc) and they have an instinctive urge to dig; just like a "herding" dog has an instinct to "herd;" a dog bred for "protection" has an instinct to "protect;"  etc.

You want a beautifully manicured lawn? - then a Dachshund is not for you. They WILL dig, and we don't really discourage ours from doing so. It seems to release a lot of energy and gives them great satisfaction, and it's not uncommon for our family to have "group digs" and they have a ball digging together. However, when the holes get so large that the little munchkins can disappear into them, we do fill the holes in and discourage them from digging in the same spot again. How do we discourage them from doing that?  Easy.  Take a pooper scooper and scoop up some poop - and place it on the area you just filled in.  If you want to be sneaky, you can cover it with a little dirt. The next time the Dachshund/s begin digging there; it's like "Eewwwwwwww!" and they can't back up fast enough. lololol  

And digging brings up the subject of dewclaws. We don't like to do "cosmetic" surgery on any of our dogs. We got away from ear cropping on the Danes - and discovered that they have beautiful expressive natural ears, which enhanced their facial features instead of detracting from them. We never removed the Danes' dewclaws either, because we could see that they used those digits as sort of "thumbs" to help grip.

With Dachshunds, dewclaws can be very problematic if left on. Because they are natural burrowers (whether in dirt or carpeting) their dewclaws can frequently get caught and torn - and bleed like crazy, besides being very painful. And keeping the dewclaws clipped short on these tiny paws is time consuming and often difficult.

Removing dewclaws when the babies are born is only a momentary and minor discomfort, quickly forgotten in seconds. After the puppy is over a few days old, the nerves and muscles are more developed - and it's much more painful for the puppies. Any older, and it has to be done under anesthesia by a vet.

It's extremely easy to remove dewclaws - extremely easy; and there is really no excuse for a breeder NOT to remove them.  If you've never had a Dachshund with a torn dewclaw - count yourself lucky. It's very painful for them and we only had to experience it once before we began removing all dewclaws.

Anyone who has Dachshunds is familiar with their Dachshunds (just like cats) having a tendency to bring in "trophies" to parade around and impress their owners.

Many times it's the "overwintered toys" they buried the summer before and are now nicely "aged" "smelly" and utterly irresistible (to them).  Ours tend to dig up rawhide chews and rope toys. They bury so many of them, I'm surprised that we don't have "rawhide trees" and "rope toy trees" sprouting up everywhere.  

 
Anytime they find and become infatuated with an "aged" toy - just be glad it's a toy and not a dead (or live) animal.  

Our Beagle jumped in the bushes one day and jumped out immediately with 1/2 of a full grown rabbit. YUCK!  

Our kids once brought in a live half-grown squirrel and let it LOOSE  in the house! (The squirrel promptly shot off like a carnival motorcyclist zooming around the walls with all the dogs in frenzied pursuit. Eventually I was able to throw a towel over him and take him outside. He was uninjured except for a broken tail which fell off, and made him very identifiable. He lived for many years happily in the FRONT yard where the dogs couldn't get to him again.)

Another placed puppy brought in a live snake once and let it loose in the house - his Mom really freaked.
 
So be GLAD if they are infatuated with inanimate objects.....lolololol  And praise them for their "trophies."

Everyone knows instinctively how to "play" and Dachshund absolutely love games of chase, fetch and tug-of-war.

But this is about other special "spots" on a dog that can be delightful to him.

Tickle Spots

Forget the ribs - those are ticklish on humans, not dogs. However, the bottoms of the feet!  Yes indeed - those are VERY ticklish for a dog....take your pets foot, and blow on the bottom pads of his feet, especially the areas between the pads. Your dog will probably wiggle with delight.  :-)  However, just as there are some people who do not have ticklish feet, there are occasionally some dogs who appear not to have ticklish feet as well.

And forget blowing "in" the ears - that is annoying. Blow tiny puffs on his nose - that's another tickle spot for him.

Our little puppies respond to "tickle fingers."  I dance my fingers lightly all over them and joyfully say "Tickle fingers!  Tickle fingers!"  Any puppy coming from our house knows what those words mean and dance happily beneath the fingers.

Relaxation Spots

Although the chest can be a "tickle spot" too, causing your dog's hind leg to make a scratching motion - the chest is also one of the BEST places to massage a dog - particularly before going to bed. Don't believe me?  Use the flat of your hand and very slowly and gently massage his chest. If the dog is sitting up, don't be surprised if the eyes close and he begins to sway.  :-)  I've had dogs that insist on a "chest rub" every night before they go to bed. They sit right by me expectantly, until I rub their chest for a few minutes. Then they are satisfied to go to bed and sleep. Like a little kid wanting you to read them a book. And don't laugh at that - because many dogs LOVE being read to. They recognize it as a special "one-on-one" time with their beloved owner.

Many Dachshunds lay upside to invite "tummy rubs" but while you are rubbing their tummy, extend the rubbing down their thighs (stifles); the dogs will stretch their back legs out in enjoyment.

Have you ever seen a dog walk slowly beneath a window or a shrub/tree with the curtains or leaves just brushing his back. He'll do it over and over as though hypnotized by the feel.  You can imitate that by gently brushing your fingers slowly, slowly from his neck, down his spine, to his tail and then up again - over and over - barely touching his hair. The only dogs I would NOT do this on are dogs that have any kind of a neurological problem - tremors, epilepsy, etc.  The "stimulation" on the spinal area (or head) can trigger a spasm reaction that is similar to a seizure.

What exactly IS a "Backyard Breeder" or  "Puppy Miller", anyway?

Both have a detrimental connotation, obviously. Basically, it seems to boil down to "volume"; if a "bad breeder" has only one or two dogs and produces few puppies a year, then he is called a "Backyard Breeder."  If a "bad breeder" has lots of dogs and produces hundreds of puppies a year, then he is called a "Puppy Miller."  But the terms "Backyard Breeder" and "Puppy Miller" can be problematic.

For instance, we purchased little Dazzle sight unseen because we trusted the breeder - she SOUNDED knowledgeable in emails and on the phone. When Dazzle came to us, we saw immediately that she was deaf and mostly blind. The breeder had only 2 dogs she was breeding, so you really couldn't call her a "Puppy Miller"; and  Dazzle was in good weight, loved to be held and had obviously been wonderfully taken care of, so you really couldn't call her a "backyard breeder" either.  The breeder was extremely ignorant, is all. Breeding dogs is a constant learning experience. Heaven knows I've made mistakes...still make them; but I try to learn from each one.

In another instance, I had a lovely mixed breed who had been given to us from a loving family (who had, unfortunately, allowed their female to get pregnant by a neighbor's dog), both parents were healthy purebreds, kept in loving homes; and the puppies were loved like children. (The female was spayed after the litter was weaned.)  I don't think you could define those folks as "Backyard Breeders" either. Breeders - yes - because ANYONE who allows their dog to be bred is a "breeder" - like it or not.

I even had one breeder tell me that anyone who breeds dogs and does NOT have a kennel building is, by definition, a "backyard breeder."  Puh-leeze!

I also know wonderful breeders who happen to have kennels, and they are knowledgeable and caring about their dogs. They also have quite a few dogs and produce a lot of puppies. I would not use the term "Puppy Miller" at all to describe them.

My honest opinion is that too many folks use the words "Backyard Breeder" and "Puppy Miller" as a scapegoat if their dogs have any problem. I can't count the number of times I've heard of folks blaming the "Backyard Breeder" or "Puppy Miller" for their (previously healthy) 12-year-old dog having a heart attack, or their (previously healthy) 10-year-old dog coming down with liver failure. I feel that is extremely unrealistic. Your heart is broken when you lose a loving family member, and it's understandable to try to find a reason, or cause for the illness (or death); but unfortunately - where there is life there will always be health issues and death. What's important is that we do the very best we can - both as breeders AND owners.  

The biggest problem I have with the so-called "Backyard Breeders" and "Puppy Millers" are how they keep their dogs; caged their entire lives, or tied outside, forced to have puppies every heat cycle, inadequate food, shelter, medical care, unloved. It breaks my heart.

However, to me it boils down to just "Are they good breeders? or are they bad breeders?"

An ignorant/bad/uncaring breeder is a problem, whether he breeds 2 dogs or 200 dogs; and he should be given a whole lotta "thump therapy" and shut down.  Unfortunately, many simply change the name of their kennel (and often their own legal name as well.)  I ran into a horrible breeder who had changed her name (and her kennel name) three times, just to avoid censure and legal problems.  

I think it's too easy for the owners to blame the breeders for everything.....just like it's too easy for the breeders to blame the owners for everything. There HAS to be trust, goodwill, knowledge, and a willingness to communicate and work together - for the lifetime of the puppy. Not "if" a puppy has a problem, but "how" the breeder handles it - is one of the differences between a bad breeder and a good breeder, in my opinion anyway.

Can I guarantee you that any puppy you purchase from us will NOT have liver failure at 10 or die of a heart attack at 12?  No - no one can. But what I CAN guarantee you is: we breed the best dogs we can, we study the genetics and breed the way we feel is best, we are knowledgeable about health issues, and (most important) we are going to be there right along with you if your puppy/dog ever becomes hurt or ill. We want to be involved. We want to help. But can we absolutely guarantee you that our puppies/dogs are going to live long and perfect lives?  No, no more than a mother going into a hospital can tell the doctor that she wants his guarantee that her baby will be 100% perfect - and STAY healthy his/her whole life.  Life is not 100% perfect - it's life, that is all. It's up to us (the owner and the breeder) to make it the very best possible for the new little puppy.

 

Won't a female make a better pet if she is allowed to have a litter before she is spayed?

No. Matter of fact, motherhood may make a friendly dog nervous and snappy trying to protect her puppies.

What is the difference between a "miniature Dachshund puppy" and a "standard Dachshund puppy?"

Technically, there is really no such thing as a"miniature Dachshund puppy" or a "standard Dachshund puppy." (As per AKC regulations) a Dachshund is only a "miniature" if he/she weighs 11 lbs or under at one year of age. Although a breeder might guess that a puppy would fall in between the weights of the parents, occasionally a puppy can be larger or smaller than either parent.

A "tweeny" (a term made up by breeders - not an AKC term) describes Dachshunds that weigh between 11 - 16 lbs at one year of age. A one-year-old Dachshund which weighs over 11 lbs is technically a "standard", though the AKC states that "standards" are "usually 16 - 32 lbs."  

Don't responsible breeders always show their dogs?

Just because a dog is shown does not make him "good." Likewise, just because a dog is not shown does not make him "bad." Also, be very careful in examining the "championship" of a dog. Did you know that many Dachshunds are currently advertised as "International Champions" when in fact - they have never been out of the state, let alone country - and might have been exhibited in only one small local show in their entire lifetime?  There is an organization called "The International All Breed Canine Association" which has no affiliation with the AKC, and which hosts small local dog shows, and offers the winner a title called "IABCA champion" (aka International All Breed Canine Association champion). However, unscrupulous breeders leave out the complete title, using only the first word "International" and the last word "champion" misleading people into thinking that their dogs are really international champions. (!) 

The IABCA is only one of a number of "alternative canine registries" (many of which were set up for puppy millers and unscrupulous breeders) and if you are considering purchasing a puppy, I highly recommend researching them. AKC & CKC are the two registries to look for when purchasing a registered Dachshund.

Don't responsible breeders always belong to dog breed clubs or breed organizations?

When many members of an organization (or club) share opinions (even false ones), there is a great deal of pressure towards conformity and people are not as open to actually learning or researching. Also the "status" that certain members hold outside the group influence how other members interact with each other and influence their judgments. Judging whether a breeder is good or not just by looking at what organizations he belongs to is pretty ridiculous - a person sends in membership fee and becomes a member - how on earth does that make the person more knowledgeable or reputable? There are many good ways to judge a breeder, but looking at the status symbols of club memberships is not one of them.

Don't Dachshund puppies have to be handled by children from a very young age in order to become "child friendly?"

Unfortunately, many people (breeders and buyers alike) treat puppies as toys for their children/grandchildren, and do not instruct them on how to properly handle puppies. I have seen puppies so traumatized from improper handling by children that they are scared to be picked up and reluctant to be handled; and it takes a lot of time, reassurance and retraining to get them to trust people again. Many (if not most) Dachshunds that end up in rescues or shelters are because of being physically mishandled and/or emotionally traumatized by children.

Also, improper handling can injure a puppy's spine causing weakness which might contribute to spinal paralysis later in life. Puppies traumatized at a young age by children can become fearful and defensive around children, a trait that can be carried through into adulthood.

Proper handling of baby puppies is essential to their emotional well-being; and puppies who have been gently and properly handled interact happily with everyone -  adults and children.

My child (or children) belongs to 4-H, so obviously they are experienced with animals, and love them.

Belonging to 4-H might mean that a child was taught how to raise animals "properly" - but not necessarily "compassionately."

As a kid, I used to belong the 4-H as well as most of my cousins and friends. I raised rabbits, my sister raised chickens, my cousins raised lambs, my friends raised calves. We enjoyed going to the huge fairs every year. But then, as I grew older and become more involved in animal welfare,  reality set in.

    I can't remember where I saw the below - but it affected me profoundly. It made me take a good hard long look at organizations that purport to be of benefit to folks (especially children) and use animals.

    When my youngest was 9 yrs. old, her 4-H projects were rabbits. We didn't have any slaughtered, still I cringe at the useless misery these rabbits were put through for the sake of children learning about animals, their uses, etc.
     
    My daughter won a blue ribbon for a rabbit who died two days later in an overcrowded, overheated rabbit barn at the fair. Another of her rabbits suffered life lasting anxiety after the fair. The others just suffered the heat and handling with fear and rapid breathing.


    The rabbits are put through the judging rigor by children who were either unable or barely strong enough to control their animal. If a rabbit flips wrong, it snaps it's spine. That happens, it isn't just a possibility.


    They are stressed by the amount of activity in the barns, and the heat is very hard on rabbits. Most rabbits are sold at the end of the fair for either meat or fur. They don't return home and that is when reality sets in on the kids. They handle these animals many times daily for many many weeks, and then they are gone. My daughter never sold her animals.
     
    My daughter went from rabbits to pygmy goats. Her goat Annie was so scared she escaped from her pen and jumped into my daughter's arms like a dog would. She clung close to her and my daughter cried. The animals become so close to the children, they are traumatized when they are separated. On the last day of the fair, when these animals are taken to be slaughtered, many of the children cry, all of the animals cry.


    These are scenes that most don't see, but those that do try to comfort their children with the money they earned from the sale of their animal. I'm not sure that is a good life lesson.
     
    In 4-H proper animal care is stressed. But they are speaking only in the aspect of food, water, grooming, and accepted farm animal handling. The animals are not meant to be comforted, or thought upon as a creature that possesses emotional needs. Desperation is not addressed in association to farm animals.


    They are commodities.

     

    Any true animal lover KNOWS, without doubt, that animals have emotions. Jane Goodall pioneered long and hard to force the scientific establishment to accept that fact. Many books are now being written about it, a few good ones are:

    The Emotional Lives of Animals by Marc Bekoff

    The Face on Your Plate by Jeffrey Moussaieff Masson

    The Smile of a Dolphin by Marc Bekoff

    When Elephants Weep: the emotional lives of animals by Jeffrey Moussaieff Masson

An excellent book (for children and adults) is "Beautiful Joe: A Dog's Own Story" by Marshall Saunders - a true story about a real dog (there is a statue of him in Canada, I believe), written in first person as from Joe. (Get the original, not the abridged version.)

Do a search at your library's website (or google, or Amazon) for the words "animals" and "emotion/emotions" - you will find a wealth of material.

 

My wife/husband/son/daughter/mother/father/uncle/aunt/cousin is a veterinarian - so you (as a breeder) can be assured that the puppy will have proper veterinarian care.

My husband and I like for the puppy OWNER to take a VERY active part in the health care of their new puppy, and not just give a vet carte blanche for their medical care - even if the vet is a relative. That's like handing a child over to a pediatrician and just saying "Do whatever you want, I don't need to know or ask anything." 

Many of the products and procedures that the vets use are done solely because they are good moneymakers for the vet - not because they are the best for your puppy/dog. And many (if not most) vets do absolutely no research at all on the drugs that they administer and sell to pupppy/dog owners (especially vaccinations, heartworm preventation and flea & tick prevention). They rely solely upon what the drug company salesmen tell them - and those salesmen are there to meet quotas, make commissions and SELL the drugs for the manufacturer. 

Even though your relative is a vet and might think he/she has the best interest of the puppy at heart, I cannot emphasize enough how important it is for the puppy owner to do his own research about the products that are being administered to his pet. I explain everything in detail to our new puppy owners - including why combination shots should never be given, nor the toxic flea and tick drops, or some of the newer and more toxic heartworm prevention products used. 

I DO recommend vaccinations and heartworm prevention, but insist that puppy owners know WHICH is the best product for their puppy. Each puppy owner is given information which breaks down (in detail) an explanation of each component of the vaccinations (and the diseases they prevent) and a detailed explanation of all the flea & tick preparations on the market - what they are made of, how they work and what the side effects are; and same for heartworm preventatives. 

It's not rocket science or brain surgery - it's basically common sense. And we look for owners who are interested enough in their dog's health to want to take a VERY active role in their medical care; and not just hand their puppy/dog over to a vet to do whatever he wants with - even if that vet is a relative.

The longer a person has been breeding Dachshunds, the better breeder they are, right?

Hopefully yes, realistically...well perhaps not. Just because a person has been breeding for "over 20 years" (or however long), it does not automatically make that person more knowledgeable or ethical. I've known puppy millers who have been breeding for over 20 years, and it sure as heck didn't make them more knowledgeable or ethical. It's not the amount of time a person has been doing something that make him good; it's how much he is willing to research and learn, how much he is willing to put his heart and soul into something - that make him good.

Absolutely!  Ask ANY Dachshund owner and they will regale you with tales filled with humor and mischief. For instance, the other day I went into a bedroom and found one of my shoes stuffed with pee pads....used pee pads; and not a puppy in sight.

And I'm not accusing ANY of the little baby munchkins currently running around the house - but SOMEONE backed up and did a doody in my bedroom slipper knowing full well that, 1) I'm blind as a bat without my glasses, and 2) I always put my slippers on before my glasses. 

 (This pertains to non-routine visits)

Only a healthy pet is a happy companion. To assure your pet's daily well-being requires regular care and close attention to any hint of ill health. Watch your pet's behavior and be aware of changes. Groom and stroke your pet regularly, feeling with your hand for any changes. Note any signs of discomfort or any unusual odors.

Any of the following are warning signs. Call your veterinarian and describe the situation:

• Abnormal or hard-to-explain change in behavior, or sudden viciousness.
• Abnormal breathing, increased or decreased from normal, or labored breathing.
• Paralysis, cannot move body or one or more limbs.
• Convulsions (seizures, also called fits).
• Muscle tremors, shivering or muscle quivers.
• Gums, white or bluish appearance.
• Dehydration - loss of elasticity of skin (if tented up over the back, does not spring back at once).
• Fever - 104 degrees or more.
  
• Signs of pain.
• Difficulty eating or swallowing.
• Loss of appetite or lethary which persists more than 24 hours.
• Diarrhea or vomiting which persists more than 24 hours, or foul smelling or bloody diarrhea.
• Persistent cough.
• Difficult, abnormal, or uncontrolled waste elimination.
  
• Drinking excessive amounts of water.
• Frequent urination (note though, that very young puppies urinate frequently. If you think the puppy's urination habits are more frequent than normal, then call the vet.)
• Urination accidents by a housetrained dog.
• Difficulty getting up or down.
• Limping or a change in walking or running.
• Any unusual lumps.
• Pawing at ears, head shaking.
• Any abnormal discharges from the eyes, nose or other body openings.
• Abnormal weight loss or gain.
• Abnormal teeth or gums.
• Foul breath or excessive tartar deposits on teeth.
  
• Sores that do not heal.
• Offensive odor.
• Scratching, licking or biting any part of the body.
• Hair loss (more than normal shedding).
• Ragged or dull coat.
• Dandruff.
• Scooting the rear end along ground (usually anal glands, not a sign of worms)

Never be afraid to contact the breeder of the puppy, particularly for those symptoms closer to the bottom of the list; the breeder might be able to assist without the puppy being taken to the vet. But for the symptoms higher in the list, those can signify medical emergencies - do not wait to hear back from a breeder, get the puppy/dog to the vet immediately.

Vets are occasionally delayed by emergency cases. However, the next emergency may involve your pet, and that priority will be reciprocated. To facilitate your visit to the vet:

1. Allow yourself sufficient time in the event of an unexpected wait.
2. Be ready to give the necessary information required for a proper diagnosis
3. Explain clearly what you want done. Don't hesitate to ask questions.

Tired of repeating the same information to the Vet Tech and then to the Veterinarian?  Afraid that you might forget something important that you meant to tell the Vet?  Afraid that the Vet Tech will not write down all the information you give correctly?

Make it a point to bring with you a detailed but concise description of the problem on a sheet of paper which will include:

1. Name of Dog

2. Birthdate

3. Sex (and if spayed or neutered)

4. Breed

5. Dates of Vaccinations and wormings received.

6. List of any medications the dog is currently on or has previously taken (and for what problem)

7. List of food and supplements that the dog is being fed, and how long the dog has been on that diet.

8. Description of the problem and the date it started.

9. Description of the dog's symptoms.

10. Details of symptoms that the dog does NOT have (ie tell them if the following is normal):

Appetite is normal

Not drinking excessively

Output (urination & stools) are normal

No vomiting

No coughing

Not lethargic, is active as normal

11. Detail any treatment that you have tried (ie Kaopectate, ointment, etc)

12. Then state any info that you might consider pertinent (ie if any other dogs are exhibiting the same symptoms, or what you suspect might be the cause, etc.)

Be detailed, but concise and keep it on one sheet of paper - your vet doesn't have time to read a book. Good vets will appreciate it because it will contain most of the info they need to know and they can forego the time-consuming procedure of getting the details - and get right to the pertinent points to correctly diagnose the problem.

When you get into the exam room and the Vet Tech begins their questions, just hand them the sheet of paper and keep saying, "It's all on that sheet of paper."   Make sure they attach the paper to your dog's folder, so the vet will read it when he comes in.

This way you will be SURE that the vet has all the important details.

Pets can travel a great distance very fast - either on their own or with human intervention. Therefore, owners of missing pets should initially extend their search to at least a 50-mile radius. Pet owners should persist in efforts to locate their companion animals, including the following:

1. Call and repeatedly visit all area animal shelters and impoundment facilities and animal welfare organizations within at least a 50-mile radius. Personal visits are recommended since shelters handle thousands of pets and may very easily fail to recognize a stray from the description reported. Leave a picture of your pet with them with your number and address. It is not unheard of for an animal to show up in an animal shelter as much as a year later, but shelter personnel do not keep checking lost reports that long unless the owner continues to follow up.

 2. Use the internet. There are many sites devoted to lost animals, and there are lots of internet sites which have a "lost animal" section - Craig's List, etc.

3. Continuously check "Found Pet" ads in local newspapers.

4. Call local veterinarians; someone may have taken your animal there if he is sick or hurt. An animal welfare organization that doesn't have a shelter may house animals there if no foster homes or boarding kennels are available. Or, if a stranger has found and kept your pet, they may take him/her in for a vet examination. Give them a picture of your pet with your name, phone number and address on it.

5. Call boarding kennels; some animal welfare organizations house strays in boarding kennels if they have no shelter or available foster homes. Give them a picture of your pet with your name, phone number and address on it.

6. Call local groomers; some animal welfare organizations or person who found and kept your pet may take him to a groomer for bathing, dipping, nail-clipping, grooming. Give them a picture of your pet with your name, phone number and address on it.

 7. Call local dog day care; if a person found your pet and kept him, he may be leaving him at the local dog day care. Ask the owner to post the picture (with your name, phone number and address on it), so other owners can see it. Perhaps they know a person who recently found a pet.

8. Place flyers in all feed stores, dog supply stores.

9. If a lost pet is a purebred dog or even resembles a bit of a purebred dog, contact breed-specific rescues, breed clubs and kennel clubs.

10. Search: walk and drive through the neighborhood looking for and calling your pet. Talk to neighbors and anyone who might have been working in the area, such as a mail carrier, newspaper carrier, lawn care professionals, street crews, garbage disposal people. Give them all a flyer. Check parks, schools and other homes - any place the pet may have gone for food or shelter. If your pet is frightened or injured, he may be hiding. Check under cars and in small hideaways.

11. Advertise: Post flyers in as many places as possible and place ads in local newspaper, providing a picture and general description of your pet, the area where lost, and your phone number. List reward, but don't list how much. Some radio and television stations will broadcast lost pet bulletins, and schools will sometimes make announcements over the public address system. 

12. Offer a reward and be sure to notify neighborhood children, given them flyers. It is helpful to offer a lesser reward for notification/identification of the pet if found dead....it's better to know.

 13. Contact animal control, law enforcement agencies, and/or highway officials to check on dead animal removal and reported sightings of strays. (The rewards will get their attention.)

 14. If your pet was tattooed or microchipped, notify the organization with which you registered your pet.

15. Ask for the USDA Animal Welfare list of licensed dealers and registered research facilities. You should mail your flyers to the facilities purchasing animals in your area. Request that your flyer or postcard be distributed to the agents who inspect dealers and laboratories receiving dogs and cats from your area.

 16. Contact Rescue Leagues - many of them assist in locating and repossessing stolen animals.

17. You might want to consider using a Lost Dog Tracking Team.

Unfortunately there are con people who check the classified ads for lost dogs and then contact the owners, verifying the owners' description of the dog and the location where the dog was lost. They might claim that the dog was picked up by a truck driver and brought to another city and that they will ship the dog back if the owners can wire money to cover the costs. Of course, after the money is sent, the owners are never reunited with their dogs. 

Don't offer additional information concerning the description and circumstances of your lost dog to anyone who may contact you. Ask them  to describe the dog and where it was found. And don't send money without guarantees of getting your dog back.

Keep track of who you contacted, and if you are lucky enough to find your pet, have the courtesy to contact them, thank them for their assistance and tell them that you have found your pet.